Brake bleeding tools

iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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Ok first Im putting this in OT because I want to know about tools for bleeding any car not just supras.

I have speed bleeders on my supra and motorcycle, however I just bought a cherokee and want something for it also. Im trying to decide on buying yet another set of bleeders or to finaly buy a bleeding tool setup.

Speed bleeders are cool but you still have to pump the brake, check the res and check the fluid coming out. Id like to make the process easier if I can.

People are always asking me to work on their cars and bleeding brakes is the worst. I want to think about getting a tool that I can bleed any car by myself.

Does anyone have any such tools? Ive seen a huge range of type out there from simple hoses with check valve to vacuum systems. Ill have to keep the price around 100 bucks if I can.
 

mkiiSupraMan18

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Apr 1, 2005
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They have a bottle that you attach to the brake bleeder via a hose and you just pump the brakes and it gets the air out w/o letting air back in. I think it's like $6 and it's a one man operation w/ it.
 

iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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mkiiSupraMan18 said:
They have a bottle that you attach to the brake bleeder via a hose and you just pump the brakes and it gets the air out w/o letting air back in. I think it's like $6 and it's a one man operation w/ it.

Ive seen those but makes me wonder why a 6$ solution is offered next to like 100$ ones. Theres gotta be downsides to the cheap vac bottle setups?

What about the ones that hook up to the res. and pumps the fluid in.
 

MmmBoost

DDS Performance
the pump ones are expensive.

the one that we use at my work is indespensible to me. it hooks up to compressed air input and blows thru a fitting and creates vacuum. simple to use: just hook it up to an open bleeder and suck until clear fluid comes out. close bleeder.

they cost $101 from matco tools

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2287&select=&page=2 - last one on bottom of the page
 

iwannadie

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mkiiSupraMan18

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$6 or $60, who cares? I bled all my brakes from basically dry once and I've got awesome pedal. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's better, all of the time anyway...

or if U have a lot of time, just fill the res up to the top, open all the bleeders, go inside watch some TV, come back out and check the fluid level, top it off, go back in and watch some more, come back out, check to see if the fluid coming out is clear... works too.
 

iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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mkiiSupraMan18 said:
$6 or $60, who cares? I bled all my brakes from basically dry once and I've got awesome pedal. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's better, all of the time anyway...

or if U have a lot of time, just fill the res up to the top, open all the bleeders, go inside watch some TV, come back out and check the fluid level, top it off, go back in and watch some more, come back out, check to see if the fluid coming out is clear... works too.

I know just because it costs more doesnt mean its better, thats why I was asking the ups and downs of each type. I just find it hard to grasp a 6$ tool works just as well as the 100$ version. From my experience with tools you get what you pay for. Plus they work alot different, one is just a bottle that goes onto the bleeder. The other connects to the reservoir as well, theres gotta be ups and downs of each time.

Again, I said making the process easier and faster was the whole point. So I dont have time to start the job then go watch tv and come back later. Especially if Im doing the work on someone else car. 'Ya you can pick up your car after heros is over'. People would love that Im watching tv instead of working on their car lol.

Im not sure I get how opening all the bleeders works though? Since I use speed bleeders on my cars I dont really know how fast fluid flows out a normal bleed screw. I do remember when I removed the stock bleeders that the fluid gushed out really Fast.

I dont want to ever bleed from 'basically dry' either, no point in running it dry. I want something fast and easy that works on alot of cars. I want to get on a regular brake fluid flush schedule for all 3 of my vehicles. If I can do 1 car in a few minutes with a certain tool Im all for that.
 

mkiiSupraMan18

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Fluid will come out half-way quickly... I wouldn't say it gushes, but it's not a slow drip either.

Seriously, try the $6 thing, if it doesn't work take it back to advance and says it's fubarred.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=APO&MfrPartNumber=T71658&CategoryCode=3378

Basically you break the bleeders lose and not break them off, probably the hardest part. Put the long hose on the end of the bleeder, fill the bottle ~1/4-1/2 full, use the magnet to stick it to the caliper, rotor, jackstand, w/e, get in the car pump it 3/4 times, get out and check to make sure it's still attached, and I just keep pumping it until it fills the bottle up w/ the 'nasty' brake fluid, drain the bottle, fill it 1/4-1/2 full again, and repeat until it stays clean. Takes ~5min per caliper, tops. And I don't need to pump pump pump pump-hold..... break loose, tighten up, pray no air got in,a nd repeat until the liquid is clear and there aren't bubbles coming out. If bubbles come out into that bottle, you will know it because it will 'froth' up pretty good.

Anyway, spend the $100 on that tool, it probably will make life easier. But i spent the $7 to try it out and have had 0 probs w/ it. Spent my other $93 for a 1/2 tank of gas. :icon_bigg
 

Satan

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Mar 31, 2005
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They sell thousands of those $6 things, 'cause they are worthless and not even worth the effort to return them. I recently tried 2 different types and went back to my own setup. The nylon hoses that come with those kits don't stretch well and maintain a good grip on the bleeder valves. I even just tried the one with the freakin' magnet that doesn't work either.

I've always had to improvise and use what I have available at home (I only had 1 car at the time. So I had to learn to get things done/fixed, when going back to the auto parts store was not an option, because the car is torn apart some way).

Best part is that it's usually free and you end up with a container that you can use to keep/dispose of the old fluid. This has worked for me WAY-BETTER than any of the gadgets.

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What you will need:
1. Large empty brake fluid bottle
2. ~2 feet of vacuum line/hose (inner diameter I.D. should fit your valves)
3. Small box end wrench to open/close valves
4. Fresh, new brake fluid (small or large bottle)

What you do with it:
Basically, just get the empty plastic container (LARGE empty brake fluid bottle is perfect). Get a piece of rubber vacuum hose which fits the valves you are working with. Punch a hole into the cap of the bottle and feed the hose thru, 'til it gets to the bottom.
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Put enough CLEAN brake fluid in there so that air can't get sucked back in thru the hose and put the cap/lid back on with hose going to bottom of bottle.
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Make sure that the hose is long enough and set the bottle down near the caliper/hub you are working with 1st. Rule of thumb is to start from the furthest away from the master cylinder 1st. TIP: Just in case ('cause the small cheap ones fall over and leak), I place a few shop towels around the bottle, just to make sure it does not tip over. Open the cap/lid slightly, so that the bottle is able to vent the air in/out.
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Make sure the reservoir is full. If you're just trying to get air out of the lines to decrease sponginess, you can use the small bottle. If you have dark, old fluid, you may want to take this oppty to use the large bottle and pump out all of the old stuff. Begin by using a turkeybaster (or whatever) to suck out as much of the old stuff out of the reservoir. Fill back up with some of the new, clear fluid (you'll be glad if you do this anyways). In that scenario, you may have to drain out some of the old fluid from the receiving container to make sure it doesn't overfill. You can be anal and replace the bottle with another at some point and do it all over again, 'til all you get is very clear fluid in and out. I did this to replace my old DOT3 black fluid with a newer Synthetic (Valvoline Syntech, I think).
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Loosen the valve slighty. Tighten back slightly and then place the wrench on in a way, where you can just turn slighty to open and close the valve.
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Place the hose on to it and push it on 'til it can't go no more. I usually push it until it reaches the wrench and holds it in place.
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Open the valve and go pump the brake a few time and them hold down all the way once, for a few seconds.
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Go back and tighten the valve, refill reservoir, and repeat for the remaining valves.

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I am actually doing this today, to replace the valves with some speedbleeders for the wife's MKIV. I'll take some pics and maybe update this as a write-up... It takes the same amount of time to bleed the brakes as any other time and I've done a better job than with any of the gadgets. I spent ~$30 last Summer trying a few the `$6-$10 kits. They just look kewl, don't work right, and after you're done, a pain to store.
 
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iwannadie

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Jul 28, 2006
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I think I might just buy a set of speed bleeders for the jeep and be done with it. They seem like the easiest solution sofar. If anyone wants me to work on thier brakes Ill just say 'ok, but your buying these special bleeders too!'.

I know a guy who is an authorized speed bleed dealer. Maybe I should ask about a group buy for the supra... He also gave me a length of tubing thats perfect. It stretchs and holds tight on the bleeder and is clear to see whats going on.
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
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Yeah, I got a couple of sets of speedbleeders off of Ebay for about $10 each a few years back. Just getting around to doing it.

About the process...
What I am saying is that the free way that I've done, has just been easier, more effective, cheaper, and accomplishes the same thing.

Those little kits use nylon hose, which is a tight fit to even get on to the fitting (and won't stay on). They have small containers which do not hold much, before you have to empty, and I have spilled each and every one of them bastards. The only "nice" thing is that they are clear and you can see how dirty your fluid is. As far as the bubbles go, by the time you get off the pedal and go look, they'd be gone anyways. Sure, someone else can keep an eye on the clear bottle for you, but that would end up being 2 ppl, right?

Basically, whether you find a good kit (trial and error + expense) or use a home made kit, it's the same thing. You want to push air bubbles out and ONLY suck in fluid. However you accomplish that is really your option/choice.

I now I have 3 different kits sitting in the garage and instead of you spending any extra $$ on 'em, I'll send them to anyone that pays shipping. They are different kits from Autozone and O'Reilly's. I am pretty busy, so don't be in a hurry for 'em. Actually, I'll probably just give 'em away to any locals or toss 'em in the trash. They really aren't even worth shipping IMHO (even if it only costs a couple of bucks).
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
I use a Mityvac and a blled bottle it gives perfect results single handed as there's not always someone around to push the pedal.

A lot of the silicone fluids can't be bled any other way without introducing bubbles.