if he removed the subframe he did... no way to get the steering rack off without doing that. :)
get under the car and measure the distances between the part on the tie rod where the thread stops and the jam nut. they should be equal (or damn close) on both sides. you can adjust them to be close...
yeah, definitely use a gasket... a new one... and rtv helps seal, sometimes it can make a good seal by itself, but around a hole that sees a lot of oil pressure, i dont trust it alone.
upper or lower ball joint for sure. try putting a pry bar under the wheel and pry up while looking under the car. that will usually let you see the lower ball joint move if it is going to. the upper ball joint is hard to diagnose, because the springing action of the bushings keep tension on it...
thats about what i ran with street tires (kumho ecstas)
i couldnt get the 60 foot time down below 2.2 seconds, which yielded a 14 flat.
i have about the same mods as you.
you get a biased opinion from me. my old car (94 grand am) had the same motor (quad 4) as most of the cavs have.
i turboed it and, man that was one hell of a ride.
yeah, if you want to, you can even pull off the compressor housing and measure the inducer and exducer of the compressor wheel. there was a website around somewhere that had all the different garrett wheels and their measurements.
that way, you would know for sure what it is
yes. the ct-26 compressor wheel is a 50 trim wheel. now... remember that that it is a 50 trim wheel with a 65mm exducer. (the big part of the wheel) you would need to know what compressor wheel family is in your rebuilt turbo for the trim number to make any sense... fwiw, my old t4 turbo was a...
trim is calculated as the surface area of the compressor inlet divided by the surface area of the compressor outlet. for the ct-26, i found that the inlet is 46mm diameter, and the outlet is 65mm diameter.
Area of inlet = 23^2 * pi
Area of outlet = 32.5^2 * pi
so
area of inlet = 1662mm^2
area...
word of advice, check both sealing surfaces with a good straightedge. i found that my center housing oil flange was perfect, but the pipe flange was actually bowed about a half a millimeter. i filed it down with a flat file, rtv'd it and its fine now. it used to leak a lot from that same place.
I made this sheet today cause I was bored...
All you do is first measure the clearances (measuring order provided), and then pop out the shims and measure them. This worksheet will automatically calculate the replacement shims needed to bring the clearance within spec and even give you the...
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