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well, ive just installed a new speedometer cable from toyota, and it lags. when i start off from a dead stop, it stays at 0mph, until i hit about 25 or so, then pegs up to whatever speed im at. if i am driving, and almost stop, but keep rolling, it works fine. no lag. could it be a problem...

any time ive done a leak test, i have pressurized the intercooler piping (from the turbo outlet to the throttle body) because thats usually the place that we are talking about a boost leak occuring. the 2 times ive had a leak, i set the compressor to 20psi and it was very obvious where the leak...

i did the alignment at my work also, and there is nothing that is hard. first of all, i assume that you are using a good hunter or similar computer rig? rear toe and camber is both adjustable, try and get the camber equal on both sides, and focus also on the toe being neutral (0 degree...

or compressor wheel chipped, or assembly out of balance makes a high pitched whine...

some blow off valves wont open much under low boost conditions, thats to help prevent idle problems if its vented... but no, a small amount of flutter isnt bad. i get it on mine too. flutter when you let off 10psi or more = BAD

on my setup, after making adjustments on part throttle, i was getting a totally unpredictable WOT. so, i zeroed everything out. i connected the safc map sensor input wire to the VF output wire on the ecu (forget what color wires) and i use the sensor check menu to get a quick look at vf at all...

eh... bump?

so, i had been messing around with my safc now that i got my wideband. a situation that i encountered was that if i got a good tune down for wot, as long as i had part throttle changes it would start making the afr's jump all over the place when i did wot runs. i have since then disabled all...

the lc1 by itself is pretty useless. it will only log afr with respect to time. to make tuning easier, you need the ssi-4 to be able to at least log rpms too. it is very useful, seeing that you can log up to 4 inputs, and it only costs about $125. i will be adding one on to my lc-1 in about a...

damn, ive seen hondas break axles before, and i used to think that was funny, but this tops my list

sure it was plugged in? try wiggling the wires, i ran my car like this once to get it into my garage.

braided lines are used for a specific purpose. they have a much longer life and greater resistance to wear that regular rubber hoses. the only time they are actually useful is for pressure lines, or lines that are exposed to a lot of heat, ala turbo oil feed/drain. power steering would be a...

"5 year old girl screaming" id check if the belts are tight enough, sounds like belt squeal to me... timing belt wouldnt make a noise like that imo

if its the original motor, its na. 86.5 didnt have turbo. but how did it bust a rod? i gotta see that :) (maybe its just rod knock) welcome back!

in a few more decades, ima get one, turbo it, and yeah... it'll be cool but in all seriousness. i like the idea. its genious. i cant wait to see if it goes past initial testing and prototyping and into some use.

either a replacement for the pcv vent hose, or id say turbo oil return line... might not be for the ct-26 tho...

rodknock (if minor) will only be audible at around 2000-2500 rpm and whenever oil pressure is low (start up). i drove mine like that for 6 months before it took its final shit. when it gets bad, it makes a scary noise, and eventually the motor wont run.

i had a titn 2.0mm, and i removed all the rivets. there are only 3.

i work at sears, and surprisingly, we dont have any craftsman tools in our garage. all ingersol rand air tools provided by the shop, and most of the guys have snap-on

fwiw, i got an na block for 50 bucks from the junkyard a month ago, and i transplanted the crank, oil pump, rods, and used bearings (yep, the original toyota ones) into my car and i have been driving again for 3 weeks now! no rod knock! hint: i got lucky. i would look for obvious signs of why...