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when i dd my metal hg (cometic) i didnt resurface the block. what i did do was use a file to make sure that the front cover was flat with the surface of the block (checked using a very good straightedge) and i actually had to take off quite a bit of material there.going over the entire block...

looks good man. i must admit that you have me doing some serious thinking here... i really love the idea of running the 2j with the 7m harness and computer... i mean, what else is different? it would be very simple... im doing some more research today, and im probably goin to go the na-t...

thanks jdub!

roller barrels are used mainly for drag racing, when the horsepower numbers cant be represented with 3 digits... with a butterfly, when it's at WOT the bellcrank shaft still can cause a little turbulence in the intake stream. with a roller barrel, the air has a completely free path without...

no... actually, thats more of a recent thing... the rod knock started after a bhg.... jdub, so by having the rods resized, do they weld in extra material and then re cut the to standard size? or do the cut them oversize? i will already be using undersize bearings for the new crank, but will...

im probably just gonna buy new(ish) ones...

ive been driving it like this for almost 4 months now... also my other car (buick 3.8L) drove for 3 years with a rod knock. we finally got rid of it cuz the tranny took a shit. also, i dont know why i would need a JDM motor??? anybody got any ideas about connecting rod roundness??? i know...

it is a t4 for sure. exhaust looks like .63 or higher, but lower than .85 a/r like they said, you need the compressor wheel's inducer and exducer diameters to know exactly what it is.

studs are reusable and can withstand a higher torque at about $115 a set, you cant go wrong a good trick for the studs install in car is to install all the studs except the back 2, and once the head is on, screq in the back 2 studs. just dont forget to put the washers on the head first...

that was cool wtf was that tire bead popping trick? spray flammable stuff and throw a match? im gonna have to try that..

at this point i have no other choice... the cams are already scored, and turbo will be getting replaced soon too.

been driving with rodknock for a while now... and within 1 month im gonna pull the engine and rebuild the bottom end. i cant find anywhere in the tsrm that says to check the connecting rod big end for roundness, but i remember seeing it somewhere. anyone? what im planning on doing is...

yep, thats a tial for sure

anybody else a korn fan? seen this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cXCJO9vBOw comment plz. personally i cant wait till feb 20th to see the rest.

yeah, the shock sensor is adjustable, and im gonna set it so that a moderate bump or motion will set it off, i dont care if someone accidentally coughs on it lol... im finishing up the circuit i built with a 555, thanks enraged for the tip!!!

wow man, thats what i was looking for... i thought the 555 could only be used for certain things... didnt realize it was so versatile ill update tomorrow to let y'all know if it worked or not.

ok electronics gurus out there, heres my dillemma ive added a shock sensor to my car in the spare tire well. it is the type that completes a ground connection whenever motion or shock is detected. keep in mind that it is usually for less than half a second that the sensor completes the ground...

it could be the block or a cracked head :eek:

food for thought i bought a new compressor wheel ($26 on ebay) and it made 6psi feel way better than 10 psi did before. plus all the wierd whiney noises went away...

most states classify the types of moving apparatuses that must be registered. they consist of any apparatus designed for carrying 1 or more passengers, and that are powered by an engine of 50cc or more. (at least thats what it is in nevada) also, they say that it is illegal to operate an...