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btw - any update on the pump output kit? Thanks-

As much as I would prefer the GpA pan, I don't think that a $400 replica would sell fast enough to make it worthwhile effort. Personally, I have no issue dropping $400 today for a pan - but in 4-6 months my motor will be back in the car (should be within the month). I don't know too many...

Nash - Did you get my PM about the shifter height?

you don't plan on running a stock elbow on that thing do you? A full 3" elbow will allow that thing to pull all the way to redline as well as come one much harder. There are a few in the for sale section if you need one... /end shameless plug...

Call BigAaron (driftmotion) - he has them in his car.

unless you can locate a fields harness, I suggest undoing the harness from inside the glove box, pulling it through the firewall and running all the harness wires through the rubber plug. From here, you can unwrap the tape on the backside of the harness and solder in all your connections while...

That is the one I'm going to send you for a rebuild...when I finally get it in the mail... / OT

The one I have is a t3 foot print with a t3-ct26 adapter.

Personally, I don't see what is so difficult about smog in CA. yes, the standards are tougher in the 'high impact' areas (parts of the bay area where they do the roller test). Pretest isn't a bad idea - but as long as the car looks clean, is clean out the tail pipe, i doubt that anyone will make...

I don't have an issue with my cartech - i've had it on there for 2 smog cycles - as well as my 3" exhaust (elbow back) and single cat set-up. I can't imagine on what grounds they could fail it beyond not being OE or it not being a qualified OE replacement (read CARB). My vote, don't worry about it.

just for fun I've retimed motors in all my cars by ear. When I check with the light it's a rare day to be off more than 1 deg. But yes, the 7m is harder than SBF... It can be done, but always good to double check.

I have pre89 euro turns...

also, do you want that 500 on pump gas or other? What are you using for engine control? These are just as important (or more important) when it comes to turbo selection.

notice how there are no pics of the front seats.... just a thought.

Could be a crack in the manifold. I had two that cracked right over #3

That makes perfect sense to me too. I would think that the bronze would wear first (or if they were that tight, the valve would actually stick) But in looking at all the valves (have them in hand) and the guides (when I was in the shop today) the valves took the beating - the guides looked fine...

I have a set of non-name O/S valves that I pulled from a head w/ ~8K on it. The stems have quite a bit of wear on them (bronze guides were installed when the head was rebuilt - i didn't own it at this point) - some of them through the chrome. the intakes are p/n: P3834hpc the exhaust are...

They are never 'neccessary' per se, but if you were going to do it, the pan has to be off... The oil-squirters are at the bottom of the cylinder's and shoot oil on the bottom of the piston for cooling. they have nothing to do with crank lubrication. only gte's have the squirters- the ge's...

here is some info on monitoring VF, which will help you see how 'rich' the car is actually running. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4668&highlight=vf more info with a more detailed explination: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=593

here it is: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23763