heat wrap is no good, that's why you ceramic coat it. the wrap will trap moisture (leading to rust/rotting) as well as keep heat within the metal of the header. the coating reflects the heat - helping the header from fatiguing.
SD - that blitz was sweet too.
woody - thanks, but being that I...
an integrated DP would also work. the only bitch is when you need to drop the downpipe you have to unbolt it from the back of the turbo - not to mention some of those nuts can be a PITA. with the separate elbow, 3 nuts and pull down. either would work fine.
here is a pretty sweet elbow for sale
there are plenty of bolt-on solutions that will get you that number (even on pump gas). regardless of what you choose (SP, BOSS, JT, CT26, older Greddy or HKS) make sure to replace the turbo elbow. The first 4 I listed use the same elbow (greddy has its own, don't recall the HKS off the top of...
I always thought turbo down looked cool. Ceramic coat it (;cough; jdub ;cough;) so it has that nice almost new look all the time, and you'll have a sea of piping that will have people look twice.
or you could sell it to me :)
took me an hour - it would take 5 min less to swap in a new one. I spent more time dicking with the the pedal clevis and bleeding than anything else - which you would do if you were swapping it anyway.
YMMV though
This is not quite correct either.
from mkiiitech:
NA/Turbo Cam differences-
Only the NA intake cam is different. It has LESS lift and MORE duration than the turbo version. This is good for low end power/tq, but rather bad for top end power. There have been a few dyno results showing some...
they sell jdm longblocks that are 'looked' over - nothing is replaced unless it is in dire need.
a search here would show that.
not a good recommendation.
there are three lines cut into the shock body where the spring mount is. you can move mount up and down here. jack the car up and look at the spring mount - you should see what I'm talking about if they are the non-oem jza shocks.
One thing to make sure (pending which brand of piston and piston type) is making sure you can maintain the correct piston/wall clearance after a quick scuff. You 'should' be fine with any forged replacement, but I would buy them from a source you could return them to in case they would not yield...
CJ is one of their internet/phone sales guys. I've talked to him over the phone, via email and in person - nice guy. Anyway, the reason I say to call is that they probably have some shipping calculator that figures up the cost of shipping - its just for small parts like that it is far from...
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