Picked up some nylon bushings from BIC performance and am ready to install. I haven't really looked closely to see what kind of job it is. But can I get away with just lowering the sub frame enough to swap the bushings out without pulling the diff, drive shaft and so on?
Im looking for some good tire/rim shops in Portland, OR. Ill be headed there in a couple weeks for the swap meet and wouldn't mind picking up a new wheel and tire combo. Im looking for XXR 502's specifically so not too sure whether Id have to look at performance shops also to find a supplier...
6 pucks clutch's have great performance for the price but when I want to be lazy in light to light city driving it gets to be a little annoying. I found more throttle and less clutch works well to avoid the jutters but reverse still does it every now and then. Also the OP says there isnt even...
Im going to change the oil anyways before I put the car back on the road so I will put in a 5w30.
Now im curious if maybe the relief valve on the oil filter bracket is sticking slightly causing the 20psi oil pressure at idle?
No sir not yet. Been getting all the other "little" things done before I put out the $ for a turbo.
Started with building a quick/easy install mount for the inter cooler to get it right where I wanted and not jimmied together.
Cut and fit the piping then tig welded the seams. Used as little...
Oil pressure at 3k is about 45 psi give or take. Running a 10w30 oil and the oil pump has the shim mod done.
The oil cooler its self is getting warm so the oil is circulating.
I recently have run into an abnormal oil pressure on the stock gauge. Im reading 20psi of pressure once the engine is warmed up completely and at idle. It has always been well within spec just like the previous running time.
Now what I have done to the car is install the new IC and hardpipes...
Anyone tried using solid aluminum sub frame bushings? It will transfer a lot more road noise over stock but I'm tired of the rear frame shifting on hard corners. Would just get the beech performance ones since they are poly, i think? But being broke sucks. I have aluminum stock and a lathe only...
When buying your fuel at the pump it is rated in the research machine standard. So really, 94 pump octane is something like 87 motor octane (not sure on exact numbers)
Makes sense that your not supposed to use an oiled filter on it since the inside body of the AFM had a very light coating of filter oil on it. I ran mine for probly 10-12k before it shit the bed. Ill have to pick one up off someone on sm probly since there are almost no other mk3's in my area...
My 1987 Turbo ran flawless last year before storage. When I fired up the supra after 4 months of sitting for winter storage it ran pretty well for about the first 5 minuets of running time. Burped the throttle a couple times then it began to idle around 400rpm and have an off idle...
This afternoon I went and checked out the battery terminals and clamps. They were pretty corroded so I cleaned them up and put dialectric grease on them. Seems to be good now :)
Is there anyway to tell if an safc 2 has failed? I have installed mine and made sure all the wiring is correct, even down to having the brown ground close to the ecu and the black far away.
The safc boots up and I set it to karman, number of cylinders to 6 and so on. When I go to the "test"...
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