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This is what Im curious on too, its obvious setting to 0 deg is stupid. It would make anypower power what so ever. But when running higher boost on the stock computer it goes out of the correct timing perimeter? As the stock computer wont continually back timing off as the boost goes past stock...

What are you guys setting your base timing to when running 15+ psi on a larger turbo? Ive read in a couple different threads of guys setting to 0 deg? I wouldnt think you would make much power with the stock computer having it there.

Awesome runs kuto, cars looking great too! Have you made your way to a dyno yet to see how much power your making?

Ive had good luck so far with an action 6 puck clutch. Its been beaten on pretty hard but still hasn't even thought about slipping. DM says its good for 500hp or something. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-action6puckr154disk.php...

ok yeah, what I ment tho was what kind of fuel are you running. ie. 91,94 pump or a little race gas when you turn it up. At 14psi on a stock head id imagine a better fuel wouldnt be needed really.

Funny thing, I almost purchased the XXR 502's this year also haha. Glad I picked up the ones I have now or there would be 3 of us. Builds looking great kotu, what kind of fuel are you running when your at 17+ psi?

I get the same kind of issue as you and im still chasing it down but its more intermittent. Sometimes it runs perfect sometimes it misses. When I put in new plugs and gapped them to .028" it helped ALOT. Try using the copper tips instead of the fine wire platinums if you havent already.

Dude you need a muffler bad, reminds me of a honda with a big fart can.

I did the swap today and just ended up using grade 8 nuts which were 10m x 1.25 with a serrated bottom. Found out why the manifold started to leak. The rear most stud had pulled out of the head so I had the fun of drilling, tapping and heli-coiling it. Luckly the stud was in great shape still...

I tried your method of installing the CPS today and it didnt work. The timing was too far out to adjust it to spec. The TSRM doesnt say the timing marks on the CPS have to be lined up once it is installed in the head. I just lined up the timing marks on the CPS. Inserted it into the head...

Did you miss hooking up either of the two ground wires underneath the intake manifold?

Ive been having troubles with the exhaust manifold nuts coming loose. I have to keep tightening them back up and I dont want to have this issue anymore. Since its been leaking, Im just going to put in a new exhaust mani gasket when I put on the 57 trim. What would be a suitable lock nut...

Would you happen to have the connector that plugs into the solenoid too? The connector itself is missing from my harness and is just two taped up wires.

Im having an issue like yours and like the one in the thread listed below. I dont know if you had your CPS out or not but it could be off a tooth. I believe mine is so Im going to recheck going by sawbladez post...

This explains a lot, since the car is hard to start when its heat soaked. Happens too often for me to "ignore" it too.

Cool, thanks for the info on what this thing actually does. Makes perfect sense too since these 7m's are so friggen hot under the hood.

I dont have easy access to a parts car to get another solenoid and wiring clip.

What if I were to bypass this piece and just put a straight connector in between the vac lines?

Ever since Ive owned the supra, its had this solenoid in between the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator and its vacuum source. This solenoid is located under the intake manifold beside the EGR solenoid. The wires on for the solenoid plug are pulled out and one of the nipples on...

Ive noticed lately that my LSD has been giving out lately. An example is when trying to bust some nuts while already turning with a clutch kick its a big one tire fire. But, If Im completely stopped and break them loose in a straight line its both tires. (tested this in the rain last night)...