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Why should you sell it if it fits your needs ?

Great to hear that it was this simple :) GL on running the car. Keep her in one piece! :D

Okay so it's fixed now? What was the problem ?

Okay and at what value did you say you set your fuel pressure at? it needs to be at least 32psi with the vacuum hose off. That's what the tsrm says if I'm not mistaking. I believe I set it to about 38psi on my car. What value is your Vf @ warm idle ?

yeah if you can't drive it at all it's most probably not the icsv nor the tps. indeed your maft system should be next on your check list. :)

If they're lined up perfectly right now then the timing is ok :) I assume 10 degrees is with the jumper in right?

Can you drive the car without problems? If you can drive it try to boost it hard. You can't boost hard with a big vacuum leak so it will be very obvious where to look if the car hesitates. If not, check your TPS and your ICSV.

So for all you know it may have never been perfect since the rebuild ? If all your vacuum leaks are gone, and you can't get it exactly right i'd check the timing belt first. It happens too many times that it shifts a tooth on one of the cam wheels right after installation. Seen it multiple...

Did you check and fix your vacuum leaks yet? also, did you recently replace the timing belt? it can be one tooth off or maybe two?

well cold startup is indeed open loop. everything after that is closed loop until some percentage close to the 70% mentioned above. jetjock on here told me a while back when i was having problems with my a/f also. @mk3tattoos You really don't need an aftermarket standalone ecu. maybe a...

mind you that you can only use the fuel computer to tune the ecu in open loop mode. at idle the car is in closed loop. closed loop means that the ecu is using the readings off of the lambda sensor to get the mixture to a perfect 14.7 @ idle 16.5 won't hurt the car a bit. You could experience...

not entirely true as stated above. especially when you have a 'twin entry' turbo. the 7m ct26 never got a twin entry turbo, the mr2 and celica did at some point.

My guess is it can work as long as you swap out the exhaust side of the turbo? Also I believe the mr2/celica ct26 turbo's are smaller than the supra ct26.

A/F Around 16 @ idle is not really a big problem. Are the A/F values normal when driving? An A/f of about 13 @ idle would concern me more than the values you get with the O2 on. My first guess would be a small vacuum leak. Is your BOV closed completely?

Could you please explain to me what is done when 'cutting' the wheel? Does it need to be made smaller than the original? thanks!

Oh I'm sorry that I didn't clarify my problem enough. John has stopped his business. He can't be contacted. At least not by me. And he doesn't reply to PM's. John is not to blame for anything. He's been more than helpfull to me. But now i have a problem I don't know where to go. Calling is...

Some things upfront: - I searched my ass off for this information but couldn't find anything. - I didn't post this in the turbocharger section because I don't know if this topic will get enough information to make it to that 'knowlegde-base'-like section. - I live in the Netherlands (europe)...

The brand of the old wheels is ATS. I still have them for eventual track or burning use ;) The tire size that was on it was 16x205x45, all around the car. My current wheels are 17" and have 245x40 in the rear and 205x40 in the front. haha yes I've forgotten the word 'babe' in my previous...

Thanks for all the kind words. Last weekend I've finally gotten around to put my smaller license plates on. My very own supra babe posing on the car:

Yeah ok got that. I figured BHG's were mostly common due to the bad stock HG's and once replaced by MHG's the problem went away for most the people? :) Hmmm When I removed my egr (when i rebuilt the engine) I also installed a wideband kit with egt meter. Maybe that's why i never thought/worried...