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I have 550 ND injectors and have never had this problem. Sometimes I don't use the car for as long as 6 months and even then...

you really don't have to pull the coils, just remove the EFI fuse and crank the car until you have oil pressure. You will have no spark in any way. When you see oil pressure coming on your gauge, then before really starting the car recheck the oil. It may very well be that you need to add some...

^He's right. When a sensor (most probably the waterneck temp sensor) goes faulty they will make ground (failsafe by toyota) and cause the fans to always turn on. So check the sensors first.

I'm really interested in this too. I've have had problems with my PS for ages now and replaced almost everything. However I did not use a high pressure hose on all parts. Can you tell me what parts of te system I need high pressure hoses for please?

if it doesn't start and you think it's the fuel relay just connect FP and B+ and try to start the car ? btw things can go faulty without throwing a code sometimes. seen it happen to multiple AFM's and also to a tps that was on my car.

^ You can put a big long screwdriver on the injectors one by one and put the other end of the screwdriver to your ear. when cranking you should be able to hear the injectors "clicking" if you would want to test that. first recheck for spark. pull the spark plug wires one by one (carefull: you...

In addition to that, the wheel which probably is a garrett series (or similar) brand and they also need machining in order to fit the already modified ct26. I had a brandnew ct26 and something got stuck in the intake wheel and damaged it. I wanted to replace just the intake wheel and nothing...

You sure it's not the HG? You posted that you had the head machined and put in a MHG. But did you get the block surfaced/lapped? If not, and taking the overheating into account i'd say 1+1 = BHG.

Get those vacuum nipples of off a ps pump whenever spot them on a wrecked supra. it'll cost you next to nothing but can save you a lot of money. Cheap spares rule!

lol thanks :) I hope I can speak a lot better than I type :icon_razz

Silly me...I'm so sorry. I misread the "It does need to be capped off" for "it doesnt" :(

That's strange... You sure? It seems that it's a straight connection to the vacuum on the intake.To me it looks like not capping it off will cause a leak ?

again: check your codes. When the car doesn't start, and when you think you're not getting any fuel you can also try connecting the FP and B+ wires on the diagostics plug. That should trigger your fuel pump and yoy should hear it running, or at least you should hear some fuel going through the...

in the mean time, cap off the vacuum hose going to the part that you broke off. it's a hardline coming from the front of the engine (it's in front of teh timing belt cover) going to that piect you're missing. If you don't cap it off you'll have a vacuum leak.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Any codes? did you already try ajusting the CPS and see if it runs better? and maybe you can try another AFM?

you can retorque the stockers just fine :)

I retorqued my ARP's after some heat cycles two years ago. It was a good thing to do because they moved indeed.

As a first, did you check your TPS and/or ICSV ? it's aloways a good thing to start checking that first. tps here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 icsv here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=106 However, it could be...

If the fans come on when you connect the sensor/plug to a ground then your fail-safe is working correct. When your sensor goes bad the fans will be on all the time. So it's normal. My air conditioning also has no belt and the fans never come on. It's due to the fact that : 1) the fans come on...