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did you check for codes yet? Could be a number of things. Amongst them are a faulty FPR (it's on your fuel rail), clogged fuel filter, failing fuel pump (they do fail after 20 years sometimes...) Do you know anything about the status of your injectors?

Just curious, When using the 440's with al lex-afm, how will normal driving be like? The s-afc can only ajust fuel consumption when the ecu is in open loop. Most probably the Vf is maxed out completely. Won't normal driving and idling be lean as hell ?

here you go http://www.hksusa.com/faq/?ID=1647

http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/index.htm you might want to check out the "Lexus/Riemer air/fuel upgrade" link on that page ;)

check for CEL codes and post them up

Ow and boost creep is normal on an upgraded ct26. Our wastegates are a bit too small for large amounts of boost

You will need to know what your Vf signal is doing. You can hook up a voltmeter and check it that way. Do a search on here to find out what the Vf signal is and what it's for. (Here's a link to a page on my own website where the article i meant is posted. I copied it from somewhere, tried to...

That thing is called the VTV. It's some sort of filter for your dashpot. Don't take it off, it is supposed to go on to the thottle body. :) Well I don't know how your turbo and WG are setup right now however it think makes sense that when there is no big vacuum leak and you're not building...

You mean the thing that is in this picture? http://www.4cefed.com/browncar/tbstop.jpg Anyway it will not solve the issues you talked about before. Please check your IC piping thoroughly and check to see if your wastegate isn't stuck open. :)

I think the picture below will explain everything to you. At first it may look familliair as i took it from the cygnusx1 site, but I altered it myself to show how the vacuum routing should go when you remove the EGR and the Charcoal Canister. Hope this helps...

There are two VSV's. The one closest to the firewall is used to operate the EGR. The one near the Nr.2 cilinder hooks up to your FPR (fuel pressure regulator) that is on top of your fuel rail. It makes sure that your fuel pressure is increased 1:1 with your boost/vacuum level. Please connect it...

with warm idle @ 900-1000 rpm i'd be looking for a small vacuum leak if I were you. Maybe your bov? (that is, when you have an aftermarket bov) Also, 5 psi @ WOT makes it look like a HUGE vacuum leak somewhere. So check the iC piping, especially the one that goes from your turbo to the IC...

Indeed check your AFM. One question arose to me: Did you check the timing yet and does the car run better when you change timing by turning the TPS ?

No one on these forums will take a guess at 'what it could be' without knowing exactly the car does or does not do (does it crank over or not etc etc) and knowing what codes the ecu throws at you. :) Good luck!

you can hardwire the cps in if you really don't have any other options. Or you could replace both the male and female parts of the plug with other ones that match. All wiring has to be 100%. if a wire is loose at the cps, the car most probably won't start. Aligning the cps is simple but...

It's very common yes. And an extra form of insurance as you can always see what your car (ecu) is doing. But it's not mandatory as some guys take the car to a dyno to get it tuned there.

I never ever install a gasket for the ISCV. Just use some Liquid Gasket Maker and you're good to go. :)

A while ago I had thesame thing. Turning over but not starting. I "wriggled" (don't know what it's called in english) the CPS wires a few times and then it started. Strange thing was it should throw me a code 12 or something but it didn't. So maybe your wiring is fried? At least check it. :)

When upgrading the turbo you most probably also upgrade(d) your fuel system. (pump, injectors ect) Why not get a wideband so you can get a proper tune? I run a Zeitronix ZT2 wideband and completely removed the old stock O2 sensor. Relatively cheap, and you can run a wire from the ZT2 to the...

Well if you feel almost no difference between a stock turbo with upped boost and a 60-1 on 15psi then something else is wrong besides you running really rich. I would toss out the stock super-restrictive elbow for a full 3" aftermarket elbow. Trust me, you'll go from fairly fast to "whhhhooooo...