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doesn't anyone see that the car i posted is not about the hidious wing? they swapped a freakin 1j in there lol :D

I sanded it and painted it with high temp resistant paint. After that I applied 3 layers of (high temp resistant) clear coating :)

You can just chisel off the J tube tubing off the plate and place it back on. If you want to you can paint it and it will look as if it's an aftermarket thing. It's free!

You can also modify the front strip a little bit to fit in a clear rear side marker Check the gray car, it's done a lot in europe since clear bubble markers were not available until recently.

http://toyotacars.kamikaze-drive.com/SUPRA008.htm check that one. it's downgraded lol

I guess it can be a restriction in your fuel setup when you go big? Can't really give you a sensible answer to that other dan this. I installed it since it came with the kit I bought from Jeff Corbat. He sells these kits on ebay and they are of high quality imho. :) see here...

bad ground? did you ground the wires near the starter to the chassis? edit: also, did you check your fuses yet?

I guess it shouldn't matter as long as it's a good ground

You've seen it right. That flame came out of the screamer pipe :cool:

ah indeed. I stand corrected. It's the head indeed.

Besides the normal wires? There's a little hole in the coil pack plate. A little screw belongs in there. It holds a wire in its place which goes from there to the fuel rail if i'm not mistaking. But indeed you can just run your own custom wire from the coil pack to some ground on the manifold.

cool info. I always thought that it just made the engine rev a little higher and prevent it from stalling when consuming the extra power for the PS pump to work when the car is idle. :)

this one is ajustable for different wheel bases. I don't have enough knowledge of this dyno to tell you why the front is also spinning along while just dynoing the rear wheels

thanks mate :) it ended up looking like this: It's down again for a head job (exhaust bolts were fubar and now the holes have to be retapped) :) I removed the J tube also. My return line goes all the way to the fender. indeed it goes on a hard fuel line Maybe something like this...

it could look just like this: Also, When setting the afpr to the right pressure, remove the vacuum hose. You normally need to run a vacuum hose on to the afpr while driving but when you are setting the afpr you need to disconnect that hose. With the hose disconnected, set the afpr at about...

As for your pulsation dampener, you do not need to take it out but if you would like to do so, just run a hose from the fuel line to the fuel feed line at the bottom of the block. check the pictures again: As seen from the fuel rail: the hose goes down through the manifold: and as seen from...

You need to take the stock pressure regulator out. Then you can place a fuel hose there which goes from the fuel rail to your afpr. like this Then you can attach the open end to your afpr. the hose that is at the bottom of the afpr is your fuel return line check:

What do you mean by powered? In RWD mode they don't really do anything but the front and rear of the dyno are connected to each other. It's a superflow dynamometer so you can check it out @ http://www.superflow.com/

thanks For the fast celicas and supras I used trance/dance music 'cause I think it 'suits' the cars right. For the saab I wanted to use some dance music but that came out just so totally wrong :biglaugh: and status quo seems to be the right music for old saab cars lol :icon_razz

Needed for dynoing the 4WD turbo celicas ;)