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In all seriousness, there is no sound like compressor surge :love:

It's simple: Start your car and let it idle for 1- to 15 minutes. Then it's at operating temp. You don't have to watch rpm all the time. At cold idle it will be around 1700rpm (more or less) and the rpms will drop as the car warms up. Just confirm that the car is idling somewhere between 650 and...

Here's a video shot from the supra: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/06666dd1-3795-49aa-8e38-9a1d01562225.htm While I'm at it, shamelessly promoting my own mk3 video's on youtube. :biglaugh: Dutch Big supra meeting : http://youtube.com/watch?v=g4AG5o6ovfQ Smaller meeting/racing vid...

Indeed. Wait untill the car runs at about 800rpm or lower. And please tell us you did not forget to jump the T1 and TE1 with a wire or paperclip on your diagnostics plug ?

You can hook the KS wires up the way you like it. Doesn't matter if you swap the first for the second or not. As for the VSV's. You must keep the front one. That one is for your fuel compensation if i'm not mistaking. When you make boost the fuel pressure must rise accordingly. I.E. if you make...

Mine rusts at the rear driver side fender because of a leaking hatch seal, but the most of the rust was located under the nose. That's right, the logo is a water leak and after about 18 years the whole metal piece underneath the nose cone has turned to rust :( I'm now having a new piece of...

If the car only cranks and doesn't start even after you've tested some other things mentioned above like the fuel pump test and new gasoline, it can very well be that the CPS wiring has gone bad. I've had thesame problem last year. That reminds me... did you check your codes yet?

Well... Did you check for codes yet?

Although you should always have a good ground, the little ground wire shouldn't really matter. No spark kan be a lot of things. After checking for spark at the spark plugs I'd first check the CPS wires. It's a common point of faillure. Wiggle them and then try to start. Also, If i'm not...

This is soooo great! Looking forward to the "T" and "M" so I can use it for my website! ;)

yeah seriously. Check the picture of my friend mmarkk his supra. He's also on the board here. Here in Holland (maybe whole europe?) it's quite common to do that. Indeed a little trimming of the moulding and maybe ajusting the light bulb holders/wiring a bit.

I thought everybody used the clear rear sidemarkers in the front? At least, that's how a lot of people do it over here. It requires minimal ajustment of the front side trim to fit it in.

just remove the light... and no cutting holes is required for an auto --> manual swap. You must reuse your own ecu and wiring loom. Just splice two wires together for the car to start properly. Splice two other together for the rear lights to work. Not to be an ass but please use...

Do you also stamp your feet and roll on the floor with a head red as a tomato, screaming for his mommy before you post this stuff? Can't seem to get that picture out of my head when I read your posts.

You do know the difference between a BOV and a wastegate? That said: You can use both. Put the BBC on your turbo and the BOV somewhere in your intake system. What bov do you want? A bosch 110 bov will go where the stocker sits now. If you want an greddy or hks kind of bov : Leave the stock...

See pooldles reply.

If you take a 91+ (which is also 89+ :P ) be prepared for even more connector rewiring/replacing. the 89 and 91+ also have differences. Like the plugs near the ignitor Better take a 89 or 90 loom.

great vid :icon_bigg

Yeah looks like some detonation?

Well 89 was the 'let us change all wiring and connectors year' so it may be very well possible that my tps is the 88 style sensor.