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Spent the evening pulling throttle cables out of camrys, I got one from a 94, one from a 96 and one from a 97. The 97 one is a little longer, we'll see what fits.

ATP sells a HKS to 46mm Tial adapter, but that's probably not what you want.

Are you trying to do it in the car or out of the car? Did you align the clutch? Or are you using a R154 and haven't bolted up the PP yet?

I got mine running over the weekend, just set in the car and started and idled for a minute or two, probably won't be driveable for quite awhile, just wanted to check my wiring and see what other issues I would run into. Biggest problem I found was that the throttle cable is a couple inches too...

Over alomst 10 years I have owned 11 total, probably only 7 at one time. Beside the first two and the last one though I probably only spent ~$2500 on the other 8. I'm trying to get down to 1, but I'm sure I'll end up with 2 or 3. 86.5 - black 87T - silver 87T - gray 88T - maroon 89T -...

Well if you would have replaced the stock GTE stuff with aftermarket anyway then the GE is definantly the way to go if all you want is basically a 2JZ longblock. But upgrading a GE with thicker HG, 7M CPS, TT coils, TT igniter (?), TT harness (?), TT ECU, TT AFM(?) and FFIM would add quite a bit...

That's true, I guess I'm just pondering at what point the savings of getting the 2JZGE get lost in all the extra costs and you could have just gone 2JZGTE. I will be running mine on 7MGTE electronics, but I suppose if I was turboing a car that came with a 2JZGE in it this would make more sense...

How cheap can you get a TT ECU and ignition though? The goal of my 2JZGE swap it to keep the cost down, cheaper than rebuilding a 7M for the whole swap would be ideal. Obvioulsy you guys are taking a different approach, but by the time you're done a couple thousand more for a 2JZGTE wouldn't...

I have a clamp from a broken turbo that I took off last weekend, I can send it to you if you want. Toyota wouldn't even sell you just the clamp, you'd have to buy a whole turbo. I'm sure there are plenty of people with broken CT26's out there that could get you a clamp.

I need to pick up a fuel fitting from the local race shop, so I'll bring a stock wire in with me and see if I can find something with an end that will fit in the 7M coil.

Update? If I don't hit any snags I think I will be able to drop mine in (2JZGE with 7M electronics) this weekend and start it up, just to make sure all the wiring is good, then I'll take it back out and finish the rest of the details. Biggest unknown right now is plug wires. The stock 2JZGE...

So when you do a remote oil filter on a JZ engine everybody is keeping that big ugly mount?

I assume you've seen IJ's, kinda hard to draw any conclusions from that though. It'll be a few months yet before I have mine running.

I was just looking for custom wires and found that Magnecore should be able to help. From their website: "Any part of a Magnecor ignition wire can be purchased separately. Loose ignition cable (any type), boots, terminals, professional quality crimp tools, numbering sleeves and wire...

This is what the 1JZ one looks like right? http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/9391/1jzblocksa5.jpg I don't want all that stuff, I want the filter to mate right to the block. I assume that big angled mount is there to get the filter to clear the A/C compressor, but I'm not going to have A/C.

Which cars got the oil cooler? Is the stud the same part as shown above?

Based on these pics it looks like it would be worth a try, or do you already know it will work?

Is there an easy way to get rid of the big cast aluminum oil filter mount on my 2JZGE, It looks just like the 1JZ one. I tried using a 7MGE filter stud, but the threads in the block are 3/4-16 (same as the oil filter itself) but the 7M block has slightly bigger metric threads on the block side...

I started on mine today, I'll have to take some pics and make a thread. Going smoothly so far.

As a general reference If it takes a 10mm wrench it's M6X1.0 If it takes a 12mm wrench it's M8X1.25 If it takes a 14mm wrench it's M10X1.25 Obviously there are exceptions, but it's close. In the case of trans mounts they should be M8X1.25 probably about 20mm long. Of course harware...