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I notice this thread is confusing some people. Most (all?) aftermarket pistons the pin will just slide right in (floating wrist pin), you only need to do this for stock pistons. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudgeon_Pin_(Internal_Combustion_Engine)

Obviously the big backfire is well beyond the normal stress on the manifold, but speaking from my own experience a design that has those corners bent into the sheet is much stronger than welding two flat sheets at 90*. I mentioned it in one of your other threads and I'm not too suprised to hear...

Those big long welds on sharp corners like that are just cracks waiting to happen.

Here's the length differences between stock MIII throttle cable (top) 92-96 Camry cable (middle) 97-? Camry cable (bottom) And a comparison of the 7MGTE CPS (left) 2JZGE CPS (middle) 7MGE CPS (right) The 7MGE CPS should work perfect (thanks again JonoTurbo). The Camry cable is...

I think his point was that there aren't inspection holes in a W58... or did you mean the two bolts I was talking about in the picture, they are right at the front of the bellhousing.

Here's a W58, see the two bolts where the slave mounts, they are in front of where the clutch fork sticks out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supra-Non-Turbo-W58-5-speed-transmission_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33733QQihZ001QQitemZ110095151686QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here's an R154...

No wheelspin on a 5500rpm launch should be way faster than 1.95, I would guess you are letting the clutch out too slow so that you don't spin at that high RPM, try letting the clutch out faster at a lower RPM. Edit: I see you are on 17" DR you could help yourself alot by getting something...

look for where the clutch slave cylinder mounts, on the R154 it uses a pull type clutch, so the slave mounts behind the fork, a W58 slave cylinder would mount in front of the fork.

Just look up the part number for a stock belt from your favorite brand and replace the 763 with 615, if that's too short a 620 is also a commonly available size. IE stock SC300 belt from NAPA 25060763 I used 25060615 Gates would be K060763 -> K060615 ETC. Different manufacturers...

The alternator fits right over the stud that the PS was mounted to, then I just made a bracket that goes from one of the AC mounting bolts to the other hole on the alternator. The belt is ~15" shorter than stock, 61.5" I believe. I realize that some people think leaving the PS off is...

Awesome idea, I didn't know that. I was using a turbo one, but I'm sure I have an NA one somewhere. Thanks, I'll test it out this weekend.

I started my own thread here http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38286

I didn't have it on the 7M, and it leaves lots of room to put the alternator over there.

First pic shows the 7M CPS mounted to the stock TB, I may just leave it like this if the hood will clear, it's not the most elegant solution, but was easy to do. Second pic shows that the stock SC300 exhaust won't clear the MKIII front subframe, most people probably don't care about that...

At this point the engine has just been set in the car and only the bare minimum of things have been hooked up, I know there will be issues and I know I'll be pulling it back out, I just want to check my wiring and that the engine will start and run and I haven't missed something big. The...

As discussed in several other threads a few of us have 2JZGE NA-T projects going on right now. I got mine running last weekend so it must be time to start my own thread. My goal is to keep costs down and modifications to a minimum, this includes keeping the 7M wiring with as few modifications as...

I spy a 7M CPS, did you cut the new slot yet? I was thinking anout drawing up a template to make it easier to layout where to cut. Mine didn't turn out too bad, but I started off with the slot too close to the shaft and had to widen it quite a bit to get it to work. Did you just tap the fuel...

www.ebay.com www.clublexus.com www.clubna-t.com

I took a 3/4-16 bolt and cut it to ~2" long then drilled a hole down the center on a lathe and used a nut to lock it into the block with enough sticking out to thread the filter onto. Simple but effective.

I made my own fitting, worked good, I'll have to get a better pic when the engine is back out of the car.