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Replacing the sound deadening with more sound deadening, you won't really get rid of much weight. I suggested it simply because you were already that close plus you could stitch weld the car for more rigidity.

I got some extra aluminum I might play with.

Get some dry ice and a dead blow hammer to remove then replace it with a newer sound deadening material.

It never occurred that aftermarket starters might not be the way to go? OEM or nothing on such parts is my opinion. If it doesn't meet or exceed OEM quality on an electrical part, I dont buy it.

Whats your knowledge like regarding either engine? Do you have the patience for the 7m? Even 2js are old enough now that the reliability on the electronics is diminished. What goals do you have to the car?

It's not just the ground that is the biggest deal, with it not being tight the mV was not being produced for the KS to even work. The KS works off the actual frequency going through the block, when it starts knocking the KS picks up that frequency and starts producing mV.

Look at my mods in my sig. Im very close to 400whp with my setup. Also, drivable torque with a 7m is not a problem.

What engine? 400 hp can be made fairly easily.

My car idles at 15.4 IIRC at idle and WOT is 10.8 going to 11 as RPM climbs.

Lean at idle is fine. Code 52 is knock sensors and it causes the ecu to pull timing and fully open injectors under wot

Hoops? Lol. If you call arp studs and a headgaskets hoops, I feel sorry for you when your 20+ year old valve seal guides fail while you're putting the new turbo on and cant figure out why you're smoking now.

I think it might cause a bit of a cackle

You know why the 2j is more swapped than a 7m? Fast and Furious. Everyone is looking for that power that everyone talks about, the engine has more 'hype' to it. A 7m is only as reliable as it's owner, simple as that. Ask 3p the last time his 7m left him walking because it's so 'unreliable'.

Guess the 2j is bad because toyota went away from it and don't tell me that the 1j/2j are far more capable of higher horsepower. They are its been proven time and time again. look at how many 7m are over 1k hp. 2jz is dime a dozen over 1k.

Full exhaust and a shimmed wastegate will probably match the 1j in power and torque so I wouldn't consider the extra 60 hp claimed as more power. The 5.5k powerband isn't the engines fault, it's the small ct26 that is put on it. BHG/Rodknock is also something else that falls on the owners fault.

The ECU is rarely at fault for a code 52, the wiring can be checked with an ohm meter and that leaves the KS itself at the end. If you've got some other mk3 buddies around you, swap the KS with a good known KS, does it go away? Can you swap ECU's? If you touch the KS wire then touch a chassis...

Does he have any measuring tools? Dial indicator with a magnet base would work for measuring lift if he has a spare head or live centers to hold it and turn it.

Did you try looking in the fuel section? http://www.driftmotion.com/category-s/1842.htm

You could always get a chain and some muratic acid. Follow the directions for the acid and toss the chain in at the end, it's better if they're loose links as the chain will be shaken inside the tank. I did this and my tank came out looking like new.

Cant we also use knock sensors off another toyota?