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If its fuel cut, you will have a code 34 stored. The fireballs could also be from an overly rich condition aka doing pulls with a boost leak or way too much fuel pressure. You said you have a walbro 255, did you bypass the jtube? Have you done a fuel pump rewire with a relay for more constant...

It'll stay in warm up enrichment longer causing possible oil viscosity problems from fuel leaking by the rings. Why not just run a t-stat? It could actually help your temps by leaving it in the cooler a touch longer allowing the wind to further cool the oil. Just my .02

I had my EBC boost spike randomly one night. PSI went to 21 PSI and my car never hit fuel cut. Mods in sig. Fuel cut will cause a code 34(Abnormal turbo pressure) and the CEL will flash. If you're getting a higher RPM cut and no CEL flash, I'd bet on a boost leak.

Let me give you a piece of advise. Stop beating the fuck out of the car while its showing you it is having problems. Do you try to run a marathon with a chest infection? Stop asking the same of your car. Now, don't just keep throwing money at the car while its acting up because you'll soon...

Basically my mods minus 57 trim and supporting mods. Its such a fun car in this state for such little money invested.

Did you re-tighten all the hose clamps on the 3000 pipe?

You cleaned the Karmen Vortex AFM? Please describe this in detail as this is a mirror-style AFM, not a hot wire MAF. Swap AFMs with a known good AFM and try again.

Yes, it's normal. You're seeing it go from 0 to infinite ohms because that's the IDL contacts in the TPS. As soon as your foot moves the throttle, that contact needs to break so the ECU sees you as increasing the throttle angle so it can make adjustments accordingly.

Well, the biggest problem is that with the pressure raised, the stock turbine housing and wheel can't flow enough to maintain the pressure in the plenum. In other words, the turbo isn't producing the CFMs. Even with my profec b spec 2, I still go from 16 PSI at 3.5 to 13-14 PSI by 6k. IIRC...

Just a MBC thing. In order for it to hold til redline, you'd need more pressure on top of the spring but that will also cause increased pressure. Easiest is to get a EBC and let the solenoid work its magic.

You could spin it by hand and flush oil through it, might clear up any gunk from being stored. Don't forget the coolant side as well.

Do you get any dash lights?

Website says 540. Thats probably at 25 psi or high without seeing a compressor map.

Yep, no clue why I posted that. Must of been one of those days.

With full supporting mods. Exhaust, hardpipe, intercooler, lex afm, 550s, AFPR and a walbro 255 or similar, you can get 400 crank hp out of a 57 trim at 16-18 PSI.

I still would not be pushing the old 22+ year old pumps that hard. If the pump gets weak and leans out during a 3rd gear pull, on these stock pistons, you'll regret using an old stock pump.

A mod list would be nice. Only thing I see is you're pushing a ct26 60-1 to 20 PSI and only getting 387.

I wouldn't push a factory 20+ year old pump that hard.

Factory FPR is not up to the task of a walbro 255, neither is the j-tube. Also, the lex/550 mod doesn't give you more power persay, it gives you more room to grow. I'd also look further into why your turbo is being so lazy, my 57 trim is near full boost at 2700 IIRC.

Honestly, that 18g won't flow much more than a ct2657. From what I've read, the ar on the turbine housing really holds the turbo back.