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did the compression test per TSRM and my results are: #1: 140 #2: 130 #3: 125 #4: 135 #5: 125 #6: 130 i guess the next thing to decide to do is do a retorque on the head bolts. what do you guys think?

also, the wheels stick out a couple milimeters on the front already, spacers would would make it look way off. it looks like i may not be able to use these wheels...

this all makes sence but wouldnt grinding down the brake caliper weaken the integrity of the the caliper?

why is it only the front right side? on the other three sides the wheels fit fine. i dont want to spent any money on these wheels just to get them on.

the wheel. the rub mark in the wheel. and, the rub mark on the brake caliper. what do you guys think?

so, i just got a set of some old school toyota 16" wheels and all go on fine except for the front right. the inner wheel rubs over the top of the brake caliper. i know its not the wheel thats bad because i've tried it with all the other wheels, and they go on fine with the front left and both...

nice.

Blitz Nur Spec R is what i run. i wouldn't go any other way.

this is true. i bought my shortened test pipe from BIC. they knew exactly what i needed after i told them it was for the install of my Blitz exhaust.

mines slow...

i believe its a piston push type BOV.

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Tial/Blow_Off_Valves/Blow_Off_Valve_Springs

what about this one: "The Racing Bypass Valve Type 25 was specifically designed to replace the 1 inch (25mm) Bosch Bypass Valve used in most Volkswagen and Audi applications. The Bosch valve is prone to failure in stock application and not adequate for holding boost in "chipped" 1.8T...

it sounds like the tick is within the valve covers. the exhaust studs look good, but i'll double check. as far as adjusting the valves it's self... aren't they shimmed? theres not realy a way to adjust them, right? just replace the shims...

when should i start worrying about it?

i think you can also gt them with other spring rates. 7, 9, and 11 lb springs are available for the Tial BOVS.

that looks like a regular BOV (out to atmosphire). i dont see how you can recirc that large outlet back into the turbo inlet. so, what are your experiences with piston type BOVs?

i'm just looking at other options for "up-graded" recirc/bypass valves other than OEM ones; ie Toyota, BOSCH and DSM. i know you can recirc the SS HKS one and i think you can recirc the the BLITZ DD and SS one also. you just need to find the adapters. these TurboXS one seems so simple you...

how about this one: this one is from JSC Speed. http://www.jscspeed.com/mk3/mk3_index.html

who's tried it? i might be the first if no one has... its the last one on the bottom of the page: http://www.turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=2