Valve Tick
- Thread starter edi
- Start date
when you have a noticeable loss of power... did you check you exhaust studs and blots on the manifold and turbo?
it sounds like the tick is within the valve covers. the exhaust studs look good, but i'll double check. as far as adjusting the valves it's self... aren't they shimmed? theres not realy a way to adjust them, right? just replace the shims...
ViR2 said:
:word8kn: seriously do it right, you want .008 intake clearance and .010" exhaust, thats between the shim and the bottom of the cam lobe
ok i wasnt going to post this stuff up till i started my build thread but you need some info so here you go,
get to this point
This is what you need for it, + a feeler gauge
if you know what that looks like, looks like a pocketknife with a bunch of little peices of thin metal of different thicknesses you stick between the valve shim and the cam when the lobe is facing AWAY from the shim.
Once you figure out how far off your shims are say you have a gap of .012 well you need to replace that shim with another that is .002 thicker. The tool you need you can get from snap on for like $15.
Check the TSRM for your crank position and what valves to adjust.
This is how you use it, i tryed to put the ends around the lobe itself it didnt really work :icon_conf
so you have to put it on the rough part of the cam as shown and have the long arm on the tool come over and push on the shim, you push the handle towards the center of the head and the arm will push the bucket down. you then take the smaller little hook that comes with the tool and VERY CAREFULLY place the hook between the cam and the tiney lip/edge of the bucket next to the shim, leave room for the shim to pop out while retaining the bucket in the down position at the same time. ( its hard and with the pressuer from the valve spring it gets harder it helps to have a friend handy and a thin magnetic screwdriver.)
once you get the shim out put it on the micrometer, do your math and put in the shim that you need to get it within spec. it does not have to be EXACT but using SLIGHTLY tighter tollerences by about .002 is what i did to compensate for it loosening after seeting more after running. But be carefull not to leave them to tight, you can have them tight enough that when the engine is runnign the valve will hang open and you will get horriible compression.
get to this point
This is what you need for it, + a feeler gauge
if you know what that looks like, looks like a pocketknife with a bunch of little peices of thin metal of different thicknesses you stick between the valve shim and the cam when the lobe is facing AWAY from the shim.
Once you figure out how far off your shims are say you have a gap of .012 well you need to replace that shim with another that is .002 thicker. The tool you need you can get from snap on for like $15.
Check the TSRM for your crank position and what valves to adjust.
This is how you use it, i tryed to put the ends around the lobe itself it didnt really work :icon_conf
so you have to put it on the rough part of the cam as shown and have the long arm on the tool come over and push on the shim, you push the handle towards the center of the head and the arm will push the bucket down. you then take the smaller little hook that comes with the tool and VERY CAREFULLY place the hook between the cam and the tiney lip/edge of the bucket next to the shim, leave room for the shim to pop out while retaining the bucket in the down position at the same time. ( its hard and with the pressuer from the valve spring it gets harder it helps to have a friend handy and a thin magnetic screwdriver.)
once you get the shim out put it on the micrometer, do your math and put in the shim that you need to get it within spec. it does not have to be EXACT but using SLIGHTLY tighter tollerences by about .002 is what i did to compensate for it loosening after seeting more after running. But be carefull not to leave them to tight, you can have them tight enough that when the engine is runnign the valve will hang open and you will get horriible compression.