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Yah man, my car does the same thing. I am using Zeitronix, and I was tripping out when I noticed my car did that the first time. My AFR's went very lean when I lifted!

my exhaust temps reach around high 1300-1475 on a third gear pull. The way to do it is to send your turbo housing out to be ceramic coated the right way. I am only saying this because I have used the same stuff on exhaust pieces and it melted away very quickly.

that high temp ceramic paint always seems to melt of anyways. Don't waste your time especially on a turbo, when you exhaust temps are going to be reaching well over 1000 degree F. You are going to smell a funky burning smell.

Thats funny, what is your reasoning for that?

I was running an wastegate dump on my old eclipse and I got sick of the noise after a while. Where I live, I would rather not draw attention to the cops when I go WOT. I agree with Joe.

Very nice car man! Sometimes I wish my car was black:icon_conf

I'm going to have to check again for vacuum leaks, because that is the only thing that would make sense. Although I did not remove the intake plenum, I just removed the throttle body, isc, and throttle linkage, and I used all new O-rings and was very careful putting them in.

good point, but as far as I know the ecu is stock.

yes, for sure they are 440's. They definitely made my high end way richer bringing the AF ratio to the high 9's and low 10's, so I have to remove fuel up top, by my low throttle settings are fine at zero.

Well I just installed a set of JDM 440cc injectors and everything went good. The only weird thing is that on my low throttle and idle settings on my AFC, I started out with a -15% the car was running lean and crappy, so I zeroed out the afc and now it runs great (14.7). I am running a 10.1 AFR...

He said that his coils are not getting power at all, so most likely you are dealing with an electrical connection or ground that is not hooked up or possibly wiring that is pinched.

Yah I checked by the vin, and it is a 7mgte from the factory with the MA71 Vin. That makes sense, because it had the boost sensor for the gauge. Oh well, I guess it is kind of nice to have the volt meter because I am running an aftermarket boost gauge anyways.

wow, that is one of my favorite supras!! I always wanted a mk2, and that one is so clean. Very nice job man!:bowdown:

Yah, an auto 1jz would be a fun car to just relax and drive. And they do make better low end torque, but sacrifice a little in the high end. I still think a 5 spd. is way more fun to drive and more sporty in the canyons which does the trick for me. It would be nice to have both though.:naughty:

Just do it the right way and go with a driftmotion FPR kit.

The cluster has a voltmeter, where the boost gauge should be. The strange thing is that the car has TEMS,LSD,Targa,r154,7mgte, and had a turbo harness with the sensor for the boost gauge but did not have a factory boost gauge. I am thinking that someone swapped in an NA cluster for whatever...

yah man, I thought something sounds screwy because, every one talks about how they have a factory boost gauge? I don't need it for monitoring, but I am just curious what happened to my car?

oohhpps, I ment signal covers:icon_razz

I am just curious. I got my car with a 7mgte, R154 in it, but now I have a 1jz swap. I was wondering, because my gauge cluster doesn't have a factory boost gauge on it, but it has the factory boost sensor to operate the gauge in the dash? Do I have an NA cluster in my car, possibly my car used...

Man, that sucks. I was hauling some batteries in my DD and when I got to my destination I looked in the back and they tipped over and ate up the carpet too!! Thats the worst!:cry: