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didn't realize i was in the NA section, shoot..I'll ask a mod to move it to the 7MGTE sections. Thanks. don't have code 11. Rick

I'm going to use two acronyms in this thread: my car is a 92 Auto 140K hg has been replaced prior to me at some point. Everything is stock except a Bosh blow-of valve (installed 2 years before this problem started), external tranny fluid cooler and fluidyne rad. PIC = Poor idle condition...

For the gaskets with a "sealant" ring already on them, which surface should that side of the gasket be placed against? My thinking is that surface with the sealant material should be placed onto the surface of whatever you are bolting to. example: the turbo oil return line to block. The oem...

ah a braised junction...I thought that it really didn't look like a weld. I won't have to heat it up to the temp that a braised joint would let go, only in the 300-400F range to melt the solder. Hopefully, just a quick solder will do the trick. ...another idea I just thought of....If...

Ok..thought about it....guess I'll answer my own thread :icon_bigg I going to clean, prep, and solder the bracket/weld using 50% lead/50%tin solder..maybe 60% tin/40% lead if I can find some. As long as I can get everything clean and prepped well, the solder should set and it should not...

I’ve been working to replace the exhaust manifold gasket, and while removing the turbo notice coolant dripping from the hard pipe just near the 90 degree hose. No big deal I thought, as I expected it to be the hose. It was not. I have a leaking spot weld at the rear most mounting tab just before...

no, I thought that is what you meant, but I just did not know what your point of reference was and did not want to assume. thank you

for clarity, are you referring to the transmission, meaning that the connection nearest the front of the transmission is the pressure, thus when standing in front of engine looking down that would be the line entering the rad on the right? rick

Searched the TSRM and searched the forum...can't find the info.. Which tranny fluid line that connects to the radiator tranny cooler is the Send line and which is the Return line? thanks in advance, Rick

i have a 92 auto, and like I traced in the picture, there is a wire attached to the oil sending unit already.

Thanks... I;ve done what jetjock mentions with no luck. I put a little dot of white out on the pintle and in fact it does not rotate. When I apply voltage to, say the first connector S1 the motor "bumps" but does not turn the pintle, so that was what I was referring to in my earlier post as it...

I have no idea what this goes to, it was just hanging down below the turbo, no error codes or engine/running issues. I'm on my way to replacing the valve stem seals and moved the power steering reservoir out of the way and noticed this wire. It is quite long and it taped/stems from the wire...

So, I disassembled the ISCV, even took apart the motor and cleaned all the gunk off the shaft and tip. From a visual inspection, It looks like the total movement the tip needs to move (to the position where it closes against the ISCV housing body) should be around 3cm which is definitely not...

Ok thanks, However, I think that my ISCV armature is not moving enough. When I step the motor to the "closed" position, (recall it only moves at most 2 mm), the valve itself still allows me to blow air through it. I would assume that at a fully "closed" postion, I should not be able to do...

No, I meaured the resistance per the TSRM ( B1 to S1 or S3 and B2 to S2 or S4 should be 10-20 ohms) I measured @22ohms for each case. how far did your arm move? rick

Dave, i just attempted a test again, and this time I "felt" the iscv while applying the voltage in sequence and I could feel the motor moving. So, then I looked very closely and could see the armature moving every so slightly, at each movement of the ground wire. So it is in fact...

Yes Yes I am aware of that. rick

I'm bench testing my ISCV per the TSRM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=107 I can not get the valve to open or close by the method described in the TSRM. I removed the valve after normal engine shutdown, so it is in the open position. This test is...

thanks but I already have the rotors

I knew this thread would cause confusion... The drum portion of my original rear rotors are NOT rusting, as they are PAINTED gray. I think ValgeKotkas is making a joke about the rust, so don't mistake his comment to mean that mine are rusting. I just want to know if someone has possibly...