Search results

well Yes, there has been air in the heater core off and on, but due to leaking hoses, and for a while I had an unknown leak from the rear water fitting union bolt at the back of the head....not enough to drip onto the ground but enough to let in air. All of these problems have been fixed when I...

No, I think you misread my data, or rather the way I listed it is misleading and I had a typo which is now corrected, only one cylinder is low #4, maybe this is better way to show the numbers: COLD TEST #1 145, 145 #2 145, 145 #3 140, 140 #4 70, 70 ==> with oil added 80, 80 #5 135, 140 #6...

Just warmed engine and tested #4, #6, and #1 #1 150 #4 80 #6 150 So, it does look like there is something to testing warm, which makes sense to me. #3 still same though...damn...guess I know finally know where the problem lies. My next step is have a friend come over with...

tested compression today, two tests/cylinder this was a cold test let the battery charger charge battery between each cylinder test. #1 145, 145 #2 145, 145 #3 140, 140 #4 70, 70 #4 80, 80 <=== higher with oil, but is this enough to call it the rings?... #5...

In January, when I had the intake off to clean, and exhaust off replaced the mani gasket and rebuild the turbo, I contemplated sending out the injectors for servicing, but opted not to to save money, since I was spending so much on the turbo. In hindsight, I wish I would have, to remove that...

plugs are new since March, and I've had them out a couple times since them to double check the gap and look at their condition which looked normal. I will remove them again and take another look when my new wires arrive. Maybe at that time, I'll go buy the stuff to do a compression check, as I...

No I do not. Also, to point out that the codes have come up without me turning on any accessories. And about what Nick M said ^ , Yes, I thought the same, so when the codes came back on the second day after replacing the 02 sensor, I did not clear them. the CE light eventually went off...

Codes had been thrown after driving and the engine is at operating temp. the other day i drove home, 10 miles with no code, finally came to a stop light, and the CE light comes on after @15 seconds. Would the sensor have cooled enough in that amount of time to count slow enough or not at all to...

actually I forgot to mention that I have a LIPP elbow, and the turbo exhaust housing only is ceramic coated. I installed a new exhaust manifold gasket, new turbo and LIPP elbow and had the manifold and turbo heat shields professionally ceramic coated back in February and was running the car...

I have continued codes 25 and 26 that first started back in June. I'm currently looking at the fuel pressure with gauge connected on fuel rail. I have previously monitored the fp while at idle and parked and the numbers were in spec: 7mgte engine, 92 auto tranny - all stock, except bosch bov...

UPDATE Its been 10 days since I replaced my o2 sensor and my loping idle at warm startup for brief period has not returned. I think that since this problem has been so long-lived and now it is completely gone, I can make a claim that replacing the sensor resolved the issue. However: If...

To clarify, I'm not having poor warm starts, starts fine, its poor warm idle only at start up. So, no the FPU system was not the problem because I found the system to be working. That said, my poor idle at warm start-up seems to have been resolved. Here is the thread I started specifically...

Update on what I've found over the last 2 months, but I'll start by going back in time to explain. Shortly after my last post of June 10th, I took the car on a 4 hour drive, mostly freeway miles. A couple hours into the drive after exiting the freeway and entering stop and go traffic light...

update...not the ECU...I was finally able to observe my fpu VSV working..that is...switching on to remove vacuum from fpr. I had to drive the car over into 90 degree temps to get it hot enough for the ECU to turn on the VSV. Seems were I live along the coast is just too cool and I guess my...

^ thanks I've been monitoring the VSV for days now and the ECU never switches the VSV to vent the fpr vac line. Again, all the sensor signals are there and in spec at the ECU , VSV is good, so it seems that the ECU has an internal fault. Last year while I was replacing valve stems seals and...

info on TEWD states that the system causes the VSV to come on for "high temp" starts. I'm looking into the idea that my poor warm start idle (bounces from 500-650 rpms) for the first minute after start up is caused by my FPU not turning on. ie..the VSV circuit not being completed to allow the...

I really need some help now that I’m checking voltages at the ECU but first…I re-checked the TPS engine was cold and had been sitting all night, day temps are in the 70's: gap 0.0mm --> VTA - E2 = 950 ohms / spec = 0.2 - 1.2 K gap 0.432mm --> IDL - E2 = 380 ohms / spec = 2.3K orless...

Well went out for lunch to move the car into the shade for the rest of the workday, started the car and it was in PIC. This was after about 4 hours sitting off since I arrived at work this morning. Engine was of course "cold" by this time, but I gather not as cold as first start-up this morning...

I was looking around the wiring today and I noticed the heater wire for the o2 sensor on the harness side of the connector was cracked and the wire was showing and a bit corroded, so I cut the wire and soldered it directly to the sensor side wire, so the 02 sensor heater wire is now hardwired...

Here are my Vf values measured through the PIC to GIC process: Note: engine was still very warm/hot and had been shot off for about 30 minutes after driving it to operating temp approx 15 miles. during the PIC = 2.25 volts PIC lasted @ 60 seconds at which time idle increased to @1000 and...