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Sean - did you go back in and adjust the injector firing timing? If so, how did you determine where you wanted it?

Yeah Joe - good call on the spark plugs. Sometimes it is the most simple things that give us the problem. It turns out that the plugs were the problem! I swapped in some cheapie copper cores and fired the bitch up within minutes. The whole time I thought that I had a wiring issue, fuel...

So after talking with Joe on the phone, he suggested that I pull out the plugs and throw in some cheap copper cores. Well, I tested the iridium NGKs I had in after I pulled them out. Yes, they were misfiring. The spark was running off the side and definately not bridging the gap like it should...

You have almost the exact same setup as me - except im using the 2j and have a gt4294. I agree with you 100% about all the options with the AEM. Its a very very versatile tool that can easily overwhelm.

Good job Sean - Ive been waiting to hear about this for awhile.

I have a .45 Taurus. I like it. Its smaller in size than my 9mm Springfield and it fits in my pocket.

Nice man - I enjoyed the episode of Pinks too.

When I was talking about quality paint I was referring to a catalyst-based professional paint. Sanding with 1000 grit is too smooth. You need some texture for the paint to stick to but the texture has to be smooth enough for the paint to flow out and not show the sanding lines. Usually...

Cubic Centimeters are a different form of measurement than Millimeters. Volume vs. length so you cant do a conversion - I think you were just plugging the wrong units in..... I think you will be good with 8.7

My Calcs for your c/r came out differently: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm Bore....................87mm Stroke.................86mm Gasket diameter....88mm Head volume.........40cc Dish volume.......-15.5cc Deck...

I have only used adhesion promoter on plastics with quality paint. You are using junk paint. If you still want to use rattle can paint then dont use the adhesion promoter. 180 grit is too rough as well. You are going to see the sanding lines after paint application. 400 at the roughest.

Whats up? Im new. Just moved here.

Get some buffing compound, a wool buffing pad and a buffer. It will take you about 10 minutes. Plastic is a bit softer than paint though so just be sure to turn it down a bit

I suppose thats why the TSRM recommends a 3 angle?

5 angle jobs are supposed to flow better than 3 angle, but some head shops claim that the 3 angle job is actually more efficient. I really dont have the test data to back it up but you can check into it if you want. Either way, I dont think you will notice the difference.

Another point is that a cylinder that is more narrow and longer with smaller valves (7M) will have a harder time moving as much air as a wider, shorter-stroke cylinder with larger valves (2jz). The inbound air/fuel charge fills the cylinder more effectively on a 2jz; especially at higher rpms.

look at the first page of my build thread for some links that go WAY into depth about this

check my build thread

I have family in Idaho and Utah so I wanted to go this way vs blowing cash on hotels. This is a slow, long trip.

As some of you know I recently had to start my move down to Palmdale, CA from Spokane, WA. I am towing my Supra with my 2001 Tacoma on a tow dolly. Total weight of both vehicles came in around 8500 pounds. Here is the route I am taking...