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High heat paint will just turn into high heat smoke and flakes on a downpipe. If you want it to last you will have to get it ceramic coated.

make sure you have the diagnostic T1 and TE1 bridged while you set the timing

I dont recommend high-pressure aftermarket clutch plates. They can give you crank walk. As long as your stock flywheel is thick enough and the OEM cluch is in good shape, it will hold a lot of power.

I attached the standard 7M oil pressure sensor to the lexus union bolt. For my turbo I used the same source as you have out the side of the block. I actually used the copper tube that runs behind the timing belt/engine cover by attaching compression fittings to the tubing.

Good choice on the engine swap. I will watch this thread for awhile. I am pretty much done with mine so if you have any questions about how I got around something ask away. 2JZ to the NA-T is the choice for me!

You cant change the seat pressure by adjusting the valve stem length. The keeper is locked into place at the same location. Unless you cut the valve in half, remove some material and weld it back together or add material to the valve seat/face you wont compress the spring any more. Your seat...

The TSRM does say that you can reuse the hardware on the 2jz. Look around and you should still be able to download the pdf.

I have a carbonetic triple plate but for your goals you could do well with a twin plate.

put a tiny zip tie on them. You can also buy high temp rubber vacuum line from an industrial hose supply store.

did you try installing a manual boost controller yet?

above post is correct - the injectors are fired by a switch to ground from the ECU and not by a 12v pulse. Since each injector is connected to a separate ground, they will continue to fire sequentially even if you hooked every single injector to the same 12v supply.

Im betting that the wires arent hooked up right. Check your wires.

Assuming that your car is running on the stock ECU, you will get worse mileage without an O2 sensor because your car will run in a safe mode and richen up the AF mixture. You will be paying more to drive around than if you just quit being a cheap ass and shelled out the money for a O2 sensor.

You said that you were filling the oil filter after you poured 4.8L into the pan? If you put an empty filter on there some of that oil level in the pan will disappear too. Or are you considering the oil you put in the filter as part of the 4.8L? What does a 1jz require anyway?

Wiring issues are damn near impossible to diagnose over the internet.

IJ beat me to this; you dont want to hook the stinger sensor to the outlet on the turbo. The pressure on this wont read accurately; your Stinger needs to see the manifold pressure so that it can calculate the correct pulsewidth while your car is in vacuum. Even when at 100% full throttle WO...

That is probably the reason you are seeing a discrepancy between the pressure reading of the AVCR and the Stinger. The colder air will be at a lower pressure and less dense (intake) than at the turbo outlet. The AVCR is controlling the boost pressure as it sees; the air is just colder by the...

Doesnt the engine temp for the stinger run off of the coolant sensor? I cant see a coolant sensor giving that rapid change in temperature as an accurate indication. I dont think thats a good metric to use in this case.

What I was getting at is: Did the fuel drop because of the manifold pressure or did the manifold pressure drop because the fuel was cutting out? The logs that you posted do not include AF ratios - without those it is really difficult to tell what is going on. If you add fuel where you...

Jay, looking at your chart I am wondering why the injector pulse drops so much at 6591 rpm. Did you try adding more fuel at that point? You also said that you are using an AVCR to control the boost level. Is there a discrepancy between what the avcr is reading and what the Stinger is...