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If you are able to bumpstart it right away, it must be getting a spark. As rayall stated, it sounds like a heat soak problem with the start circuit. Hard to troubleshoot on the web of course, but it has to have a proper ignition event even to bumpstart. That would mean the ignitor is working...

That's some funny shit right there. I loved the karate moves as well. heehee On a more serious note, i'd love to see that race!

No, gas station attendants are petroleum transfer engineers.:sarcasm:

If you are in Vancouver BC, try BC shock and strut just over the Patullo bridge if you need an alignment and diagnosis, they do good work. I'd suspect inner and/or outer tie rods, possibly lower ball joints as well. As far as the cruise goes, it's only a vacuum line and actuator, so check the...

2-stage paint job here runs about $1500.00 just for material. A good paint job with the car being stripped would run at least $4k. I'm sure you could get a quick slap-on for a grand, but in a year, you'd want to kill yourself when you look at it. If you are going to keep the car, get a top-notch...

Try a mech stethoscope, and try to determine if it's coming from the bottom or top...I'd check the crank damper torque, too. gl.

Did you get a chance to measure the decks after machining? Just wondering about that hg thickness...anyways, gl with your rebuild. Sounds like it's gonna be good.

Take it to an alignment shop, they'll show you what's up. Most likely culprits as stated are: inner and/or outer tie rods, lower control arm bushings...gl.

Lookin' good, Seth. You do nice work. I'll be interested to hear the dyno numbers. Another stellar 7M for me to aspire to...

If you are still using the stock bov, take it off and blow through it. It should hold quite well. They get pooched after awhile. I'd set up a boost leak tester and check all piping as well. gl.

Had a nice '87 n/a as my first Supra, couldn't find a good T. Fixed it all up, and was offered a good buck for it, so I sold it. Looked for a good Turbo model and found a decent '88 T with obligatory bhg, built that up and found a '90 T auto with 206 (black ruby pearl, Bhg'd, and crashed door...

e-mail anne@customfitautoaccessories.com, they still have MKIII carpets, and should be able to hook you up with what you want. I'm still rocking the ones I bought off of them, they are holding up quite well, imho. gl.

Looks great on a '69 Hemi 'Cuda. Otherwise, not so much. However, it's your car.

As the w/b is basically used for tuning, that's the wtg. Since the n/b o2 sensor doesn't have logging capabilities afaik, the wideband is generally used in conjunction with an Afpr to tune. gl.

The OEM closed loop operating mode relies on the narrow band oxygen sensors signal. It's aim is to keep the air fuel ratio at 14.7:1 at idle, under normal "steady state" circumstances ie cruising on the highway. This is my "narrow band" understanding of it, btw.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Global/WhereToBuy

Expect to do alot of research, work, and spend a shitload of money.

I spent some money retrofitting mine, including a new expansion valve, dryer, compressor, etc. If you want a/c on those hot days, that's what it comes down to. I want my car to go fast and work with all stock options, so I fixed mine. If you can live without it, pull all the assoc. hardware and...

I'd listen to that man ^^^^ he knows alot about engines 'n stuff.

I would use the recommended Arp value, which is 75 lbs. You can always do a retorque for piece of mind, though I doubt the values would change. They certainly didn't on mine after I used the Arp hardware. I had cycled them 4 or 5 times before final install however. gl.