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That sounds right, mine reads a vacuum situation during normal ops as well. Only when it's making positive boost should it go above zero. Ymmv, but I think it's ok. gl.

There are different casting revisions on the 7M head, I'm not sure if it's pre & post '89 though. You can tell by the number stamped on it, perhaps Ian or another more knowledgeable member could give revision dates...ooops Zumtizzle beat me to it.

Any codes? The tps can get "flat spots", so the voltage is intermittant, making the car jumpy. Look for the writeup on how to spec it out. I'd check for any vacuum leaks as well. gl.

If you never want to see what's under the hood again, boy, do you have the wrong car! Supras require constant love and attention, with rare exceptions, (Jetjock comes to mind)... oh, and did I mention barrels of cash? gl with your idle problem. Just post in the parts wanted section for an...

You can use a 100 amp alternator from a 1991 MR2, with power steering, it's pretty much plug and play with the exception of a pulley change, and you have to modify the fastener iirc.

Since you have a MKIII, it's probably best to look at the online TSRM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx Valve covers are pretty easy. Remove bolts, take off. Easy Peasy. gl.

You checked the wheel for true? Spin it up on the balance machine and see if it wobbles. gl.

Looks like a very good list. 300 hp on stock electronics is np, imho. I'd go 3" dp and exhaust..might consider an upgraded bolt-on turbo ie Boss jr., etc. If you are going through all the trouble of a rebuild, I'd use Arp fasteners throughout, (rods, mains, flywheel, too). For the extra $$, a...

Randy @ BIC sells an engine damper iirc. I'm using MKIV fluid filled motor mounts, they seem to work nicely. Both of those items would work quite well in your case, I'd imagine. gl.

Kinda hard to see, but I powdercoated mine blue and ground the lines...

Your car will run poorly without a thermostat, as it never gets up to proper operating temp. Pressure test your coolant system and do a leak down test for starters. Not saying it is, but i've seen members on here with a bhg less than 250 miles after rebuilding, so it's always a possibility. I'd...

I'ts probably a tooth out. Sometimes it can fight proper alignment, due to helical cut gears. I've also heard discussion of the crank pulley getting wonky due to the rubber shifting. That would give false alignment info as well. gl.

Ack, bummer. I don't think you'll be finding a vendor for those parts...just find a good parts car and swap everything over. I'd definitely replace the parts Mr. jdub already listed, then check the rest. I'm not sure if that would affect the diff or not, but check the side gear shafts etc...

pm'd

If you really like your Supra, save more money and build a driveline. Learn everything you can about GTE's (or whatever you prefer) and drive your n/a till it's ready. That way there's no hurry, and you have time to find a few more $$, and study all the rebuild tips around here. Then you can do...

Yeah, there are a few very good folks on here that do rebuilds etc. Uncle Rich comes to mind as well: http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/StoreFront

If you stick with the 7M and yours is running ok right now, save your money and do it when it fails...or build another block and then you can swap it in at your leisure. At any rate, the best way is to pull the motor and deck both the block and head to the specs for the hg you choose. I guess...

I have a minty set of stock refinished 5-spokes for sale with tires... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93941

I'd pull it and rebuild it. Especially if it has a "small knock". There are lots of tips on here for rebuilds. At least if you do it right, it's one less thing to worry about. At a $900 purchase price, you'd still be doing well imho. Some pics would be good! gl.

I was wondering if you had any more steering rack spacers? I tried to pm you but your message box is full. thanks. Clay (NewWestSupras)