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The one on the left is definitely the 1jz map sensor. The one on the right i've seen before with a 1jz swap, it's a map sensor too but I have no idea what for.

I dunno about the rev limit deal, but the speed limiter is right around 124-125mph. So you may have still been under the limit. Also the ECU uses the speed sensor in the gauge cluster to check if your within the limiter, and due to the modifications to the cluster that may or may not work...

Usually code 14 means the ECU crapped out since like you said, the ignitor rarely goes bad. The worst i've seen coilpacks do is cause a misfire at higher RPMs when they crack. Also, just because you don't see any obvious issues with the caps in the ECU doesn't mean they are good. I would...

Yeah the ECU seems to cause just about any and all problems, and you can't even really verify them to be good by putting them in another car. When my ECU went bad my car wouldn't start no matter what I did. So I put it in my friends car to check and it started right up. But in the end, it turned...

Check the crank position sensor, the 1jz uses it to help set idle.

Yeah but you can tune the VPC, you can't tune the stock ECU. Who knows what temperature baseline the stock ECU uses for computing airflow. If the ECU is tuned to run at 80F and it's 70F out, without an IAT you're going to run rich. The map sensor could definitely be contributing to the...

Drilling holes and putting screws into the plastic won't do you much good, unless they are going through the plastic into the tach. I'm not sure what they're for though. As for the white box, that has the stock boost gauge circuit in it...which I don't believe would even be on NA clusters...

That's probably your problem, many people make the mistake of grounding the 1jz alt power wire instead of connecting it to the cabin power wires near the battery that went to the 7m alt.

That's definitely the reason. The ECU needs both the MAP and IAT to correctly determine airflow into the engine. As for finding one your best bet is someone parting a 1jz.

I ran those on my old car. The wet traction was less than you would expect, otherwise they were good tires. Also, I have ES100's on the front of my current car and they are definitely too loud.

Oh man, I was just in Bourne this past weekend. I'm willing to do the wiring if you can get the car closer.

Trust me, it's dark gray, I got my car with one '90 doorpanel and one '91 doorpanel (it's a 91) the 91 doorpanel is much darker than all the years before. The only difference between shadow gray and dark gray is that in shadow gray interiors the seats and inserts etc were black. The color of the...

The closest you could get was shadow gray, which was dark gray dash and panels, black inserts and black seats. This was an option on 91-92 cars.

It's a dark gray interior, all 91-92 'gray' interior cars were dark gray.

That sucks man, your best bet is to replace them all while you're in there. I had good luck sourcing all the caps from digikey online. Those traces look like they'll probably need some work too, unfortunately.

My car threw code 14 when the ECU died. I don't think the igniters go bad very often.

Despite being old, those engines are excellent engines. I had a '79 seahorse 3cyl and it never let me down.

Well I'll tell you one thing about boat engines, don't expect to be any safer from BHG's :3d_frown:

The compression it should have is dependent on the specs of the engine. If you can post up some more info on the engine we can get a better idea. Generally though, it's good when compression is even across the board and 130psi is a reasonable number for some 2-strokes.

no, they are nothing alike