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Heh, its the same. To answer your question though. you'll need: flywheel and bell housing for a 1jz r154 7m or 1jz clutch kit master and slave cylinder and the lines r154 driveshaft clutch pedal and matching brake pedal You will have to jump the neutral start switch on the auto transmission...

As it says on your diagram, that's the map sensor plug. The map sensor is just a small plastic box with a vacuum port on one side and that plug on it. The 1jz won't run right without it.

You have to take apart the hub to do it, no other way. There's a cap on the back, pry that off and then loosen the nut etc... I tried to replace a lug bolt without taking the hub apart and just ended up ruining the hub.

See if you have any codes. I hate to say it but check your ECU, that happened to my friend Mikes car. It fired right up the first time, but then it died the 2nd time and the ECU was toast.

Hmmm must be something else wrong with mine then, cause i've tried that. Thanks for the info.

I have a really old HKS blow off valve. It looks like this one here: The problem is it has two vacuum connections and i'm not sure what is supposed to connect to where to make it work. As you can see in the pic, there is a black one on top, and a larger connection on the side. So far...

There is one issue with some struts, where the top isn't threaded down far enough for the nut to make contact with the strut mount. This results in clunking noises from the mount. I had this problem with Tokico blues, but I think that's only the rear struts. If this happens to be your problem...

Check this out for the pinouts of the connectors on the gauge cluster: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=136 Page 139 has pictures of the connectors.

This info is out there... You will need to jump the neutral start switch on the auto harness, otherwise everything should work normally. You can ignore several of the wires when connecting everything to the body that are for auto only. There will be no issues with the auto ECU, because I have...

I have heard that those 'green boxes' are the injector drivers, can't verify that. I can say that the main failure point in the 1jz ECU is the electrolytic capacitors, and that is one thing they are not. I've repaired 4 1jz ECU's and replacing the 5 electrolytic caps and fixing the damage from...

They aren't really the same at all. The US MK4 ones are completely different, and I think the Aristo ones are the closest, they have the same flange, but still require some fabrication to work.

Since igniter failure is fairly rare, and your symptoms sound like the ones I had, I'm inclined to say the caps in the ECU have failed despite what they may look like. Mine all looked fine too, but they weren't. If you know someone with some soldering skills and time then it's not a very...

I assume since you posted in the 'other engine' forum you have a 1jz or 2jz. If that's the case and you recently swapped, make sure you didn't accidentally ground the alternator power lead, it's a ring terminal coming off the passenger side of the motor, just above the alt. Also make sure you...

Its one of the two cam position sensors. If one is not working properly it will cause rough running like you say. The 2jz engine uses the same sensors so replacements aren't too hard to find.

Yep, that's the connector. Before 89, many of the connectors were yellow or green.

You don't want those bolts backing out for any reason, use Loctite. I've never had an issue with leaking. I would recommend against reusing flywheel bolts for the same reasons.

Sounds right...maybe you just need to put in more fluid. If the rack is empty and you have a big cooling unit it might take a decent amount of dexron.

Alignment won't actually cause steering wheel vibration...at least, not directly. It can cause abnormal tire wear which will then cause steering wheel vibration. As Trevor said, most often it's simply out of balance/worn tires. If you are running stock wheels they are rather hard to crack or...

My best guess is that you have a short in the front door keyswitch circuit. This may be causing the system to think the car is never being unlocked. Try locking the car and then unlocking it via the trunk lock, this is an independent circuit. If this works, then you'll probably have to pull...

I'm gonna say ECU failure. If you didn't touch anything and this just happened, it's the most likely culprit. Also the light staying solid is a giveaway something is wrong with the ECU. You're gonna need to have the caps replaced.