You use the entire 7m AC system, and you have to swap the compressor head from the 7m compressor to the 1jz compressor so the lines will bolt to it. Other than that it's just wiring.
As for the heater hoses, it's pretty simple. The hose from above the turbos goes around the corner into the...
Possibly, I might even have the plugs you need for the transmission, as I converted my harness from auto to 5spd.
You'll have to wire the clutch start to the nsw on the transmission, it's the same thing anyhow. Then just run the control wires from the transmission to the ECU. If you want post...
Either the 4cyl or the 6cyl(1mz) Camry cable will work, as will the corolla cable from the same years (92-96). I can't say for sure about the 3vz cable.
Is your throttle stop adjusted correctly - by that I mean does the throttle valve close all the way when you aren't pressing on the gas pedal?
It sounds like you simply have too much air flowing into the engine. It is being metered by the AFM, so the car isn't running like crap, so somewhere...
Check the 'Tail' fuse, and the taillight relay, both of these are needed for those lights to work. The power for this system comes from the 'ALT' fusible link box in the engine bay and runs via a black wire to the junction block where the fuses are in the drivers kickpanel. The system is also...
Both of these sensors share a common ground, E2 on the ECU. It should be pin 9 on the 'W' Connector. If I remember correctly that's the 2nd smallest one. Check this ground to make sure it's good, and check the wiring between the sensors and that point (brown wire).
If it's not the wiring...
You have no body power at all? If this is the case check the alternator power wire that connects to the two thick black wires in the fusebox area which power the cabin.
You shouldn't be hitting FC with those mods at 'stock' boost. Check your wastegate actuator to see if it actually works, also make sure the wastegate isn't frozen shut or anything.
You don't have a boost leak because then you would be running too little boost, not too much.
Well it doesn't throw any codes at the moment. It threw code 11 a couple of times a few days ago when we had spark, but we haven't thrown a code since it stopped sparking.
EDIT: Also we've since changed out the coils with known good ones for the hell of it, no difference.
Well the spark plugs don't have any fuel on them after cranking for a while. Since the engine isn't even sputtering, I assume no fuel is going into the cylinders. I checked for power at the injectors with the key in the ON position and that's fine, is there something I can check while trying to...
The one on the firewall is the one used by the ECU to determine airflow into the engine. The one by the fender is the sensor for the stock boost gauge.
I've been trying to fix my friends car which just doesn't want to start. It cranks just fine, we had spark, but not anymore. The fuel pump is pumping fuel to the rail just fine but it doesn't seem like the injectors are firing. The cps has been replaced and tested and it's fine. We tried...
So you want to take an auto transmission and motorset and put it in a manual car?
If so, why not just put the manual transmission on the auto engine and put it back in? Unless you specifically want an auto.
Check for codes, make sure you don't have code 14.
The crank sensor is located below the alternator going into the block behind the crank pulley. The plug for it is up by the water pump. I don't have any pics for you at the moment, sorry.
Just throwing this out there, but a short in the VTA2 wire to the TPS will cause a short in the map sensor, causing the problem you describe and likely a code 41 as well.
I pulled what appears to be a reworked pressure plate and 6 puck disc off a parts car. I've been looking around but I can't figure out who made them. I'd like to know if they are ebay specials or what.
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