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Technically, its the same transmission. All Supras use some variant of the Toyota A340. So it should fit, you may have to change the tailshaft housing to mount it and use a mk3 driveshaft, I'm not sure. If you run into alot of issues using the 2jz transmission, try and find a 1jz one, they are...

Yes, the 89 does have its own oddball wiring. I've now done wiring on 4 or so 89 model year cars and I can say that every one I've seen has had the exact same plugs. The plugs are essentially pre-89 in design, but gray in color, and the only issue I have run into consistently is that the...

Yes, the 2jz crank sensor does work in the 1jz. I have one in my 1jz right now. Also, like I mentioned, the resistance being low does not mean that its bad. Did you check the traces in the ECU when you had the caps replaced? Sometimes leaking caps can cause damage that's very hard to see...

Yes, if the crank sensor doesn't work the car won't start. It should be between 1,630 and 2,740 ohm cold. Granted, mine comes back out of spec and still works fine.

Since you have a pre-89 car you will also need custom mounts such as the ones sold at bicperformance.com. You will also need a driveshaft for the r154. Assuming this is a supra 1jz, you will also need either the rest of the hydrofan system, the parts to convert to a clutch fan, or an e-fan...

The JZX81 Chaser 1jz turbo ECU will plug into the supra harness. There is some scattered information that the pinouts are slightly different, and some say it works fine. There's no guarantee that the caps in it are any more reliable, the early SC300/400 ECU's are prone to bad caps too, Toyota...

I don't think its a question of people having 1jz's that are still running, I think many people have yet to even get to 150k on a 1jz. Most of them are imported with 60k or less miles, so it would take several years of driving a swapped car to make it there.

That's definitely a JZA70 harness, so you have the right harness. The ECU could have come out of a crown, cresta, or chaser. All of them came with the 1jz-ge as a possible engine.

I'm sure I don't have the most, but my 1jz has just over 100k miles. Original turbos, I have yet to even have to replace a seal on it.

That's a 1jz non turbo ECU, and it won't work.

The vvti 1jz never came in the supra, that alone makes the swap much more complicated. The ECU is different, the wiring is much different, the engine mounts are different. It also has slightly less in common with the 2jz, making parts harder to find. The vvti swap has been done before a few...

There are no available wiring diagrams for the 1jz ecu...wouldn't it be nice though. How would a motor wiring diagram help? The only thing I can think of that might help is the ECU pinout. Also, I've been repairing 1jz & 2jz-ge ECU's and you don't need a diagram to do it. The caps tend to...

Well that's one way to rule it out. :) I'm just throwing these out there as things to check: the ISC, and the cam sensors. You seem to have covered everything else.

92-96, the 4cyl from all years and 1mz v6 for sure, don't know about the ones on the 3vz. Also the corolla cable from the same year range works.

Because only the open loop portion of the fuel circuit is damaged. I'm not saying this is definitely the case, but the 1jz ecu's fail all the time and I wouldn't rule it out.

Even though you opened the ECU and looked, unless the caps have been replaced I'm still gonna say ECU. Usually when you get a problem that comes out of nowhere it's the cause, and the caps can be bad without looking bad.

The issue with this method of 'extending' your harness is that you'll end up with a giant connector right over the exhaust side of your engine in the engine bay. Also, this does not extend the body plugs, only the ECU so you will still have to do the wiring on those. You'd also have to separate...

ECU's can be particularly sensitive to electrical issues, check your alt etc. I had an alt go out on my SC300 and take a couple of resistors in the ECU with it.

Stock tire width is 225, so you might want to consider going with something like that. Also, I'm sure you could unplug the ABS computer behind the glovebox and not have to worry about actually going through the trouble of removing the system if you don't want ABS.

Code 14 is no IGF signal, not map sensor. Code 13 is caused by the cam sensors. Check both the cam sensors and the wiring to them. That's most likely what's causing your idle problem.