ok here is what i have replaced and repaired. i have a new igniter, map sensor and i have had my ecu recapped and i still have no fire. is it possible that the crank angle sensor would prevent my engine from firing. if so does anyone know what the resistance is to check it?
still no fire
- Thread starter ma70mkiii
- Start date
no i dont think it will work, you would need the crank wheel part to. mine is out of tsrm spec ans works fine to.
did you check for spark? injectors clicking? if any of that is going on then it's not the crank sensor
did you check for spark? injectors clicking? if any of that is going on then it's not the crank sensor
no spark, no activity from the injectors. i checked the resistance on the crank sensor and its reading 1082 ohms. now does that deem that part bad? the reason i had my ecu recapped was i opened it up and saw i had a blown cap and thought that was it because the ecu sends the signals for spark and fuel. but since the resistance is low does it mean it is bad and what all do i need to replace it.
Yes, the 2jz crank sensor does work in the 1jz. I have one in my 1jz right now.
Also, like I mentioned, the resistance being low does not mean that its bad.
Did you check the traces in the ECU when you had the caps replaced? Sometimes leaking caps can cause damage that's very hard to see at a glance.
Also, like I mentioned, the resistance being low does not mean that its bad.
Did you check the traces in the ECU when you had the caps replaced? Sometimes leaking caps can cause damage that's very hard to see at a glance.
JonoTurbo;1338282 said:
ima have to agree with jono. Double check the crank sensor. That what happen to me.
I sent mine to driftmotion. I thought aaron was supposed to test every ecu before it leaves his shop. I hope I didnt spend $72 for nothing. i did notice a lil bit of black stuff the cap blew out when it blew but i opened it after i got it back and seen that stuff had been cleaned off. i wish there was someone around here with a 1jz to plug in their ecu and determine weather or not that is indeed the problem.
ma70mkiii;1339292 said:
don't worry bret, i'm gonna help you push that shitbox in the river when i get back up there! j/k!
seriously though, is there an absolute and undeniable 1jz/89 chassis wizard here that can offer any sure advice to get this man on the road?:1zhelp:
follow closely, and keep in mind this car voided all common major pre-swap concerns to the best of our knowledge being that it was a factory 7m-gte car with a very late 89 chassis code.
anyway, for example: is it possible that even the late 89 chassis has an odd pinout, color coding, etc., even with 89+ gray ecu connectors? i am asking this because i have seen information advising people to treat the 89 as it's own year when swapping what i believe is the 7m-gte in regards to confirming the exact pinout and being vehicle specific unless you had the late 89 build date on the chassis... the wires on the chassis and engine harness plugs seemed a perfect match to the chassis and ecu diagrams/schematics, and "late 89" build date. i made this poor man watch me test each engine harness wire 6x before and after it was braided, soldered, and shrink wrapped to confirm it was functional.
now that the ecu was sent out to be recapped @ dm(i'm assuming it was tested before and after to confirm that the service was both needed and successful), and other critical parts were replaced, i think the only free/cheap option as opposed to buying $100-$???? worth of parts that still may not help, may be to actually remove the swap and dissect chassis to confirm each and every wire to it's exact location specific to this vehicle, and then retest everything again. unless there was there an *EXACT* cut off date during this build year to confirm this is not a possibility, and absolutely unnecessary. i believe the date was 05-06/89 and earlier in the information i mentioned above...
any help, especially help including facts would be greatly appreciated!
sorry for the long post:aigo:, just wanted to get some detail in there.:biglaugh:
Yes, the 89 does have its own oddball wiring. I've now done wiring on 4 or so 89 model year cars and I can say that every one I've seen has had the exact same plugs. The plugs are essentially pre-89 in design, but gray in color, and the only issue I have run into consistently is that the headlight relay connection to the ECU via B1 must be de-pinned.
I have faith that Driftmotion did a good job on the ECU, so that aside it's either a power/ground or sensor issue.
When you turn the key to 'on' does the check engine light light?
I have faith that Driftmotion did a good job on the ECU, so that aside it's either a power/ground or sensor issue.
When you turn the key to 'on' does the check engine light light?
thanks for the added info adrian. i did not have the guage cluster plugged in when i cranked the engine. so in order to figure out whether or not the wiring is correct then what are you supposed to do in a situation like that. pin the entire harness out and make sure it is correct? if the crank sensor is bad will the check engine light still come on?
JonoTurbo;1339668 said:
Thanks for the info! Based on your reply it seems possible it could be a simple chassis only issue, which should be a pretty quick fix. Along with verifying the B1 situation was handled properly in the diagrams we used, and then it's on to the sensors.
I am not doubting that Driftmotion replaced the caps properly. I was just wondering if the caps were the only problem with the ecu, and if it may have been checked for the other potential damage, as you recommended before in POST #6. -->"Did you check the traces in the ECU when you had the caps replaced? Sometimes leaking caps can cause damage that's very hard to see at a glance." Things slip past us all sometimes... I'll leave that to the owner of the ecu and the man that provided the service. So, just to be clear, I am definitely not trying to sling any shit Aarons way, as he has answered questions for both of us at a few points before and during this build about both of our cars and possibilities and options to achieve our future goals. There are many Driftmotion parts in going into this supra. And soon, the usual and routine spankings will be handed out accordingly due his quality parts and service.:biglaugh:
all builds have thier rough spots, this is ust one of many...
As far as the check engine light goes, I have no exact knowledge of the current status. Before the ecu was sent out the check engine light was not working, and the voltage was inconsistent between some things related to the ecu. I will be back in Ohio soon and am more than willing to help finish this part of the build if time allows on my end. I have a 6 year old boy that wants some time with his Dad and Family in florida...:biglaugh:GOOD TIMES:biglaugh:
I traced every wire on my 89( chassis stamped ma70) and did not even fool with a wiring diagram. its all very simple when you do it this way and take notes.
you need to see if you can get a CEL out of that ecu and if not try unplugging the map or other sensors to get a cel.
i had this same problem on my car, had spark some times no fuel some times. allways start at the simplest thing. fuel and spark.
did you swap from a clip?
did you piece it togeter?
is the pump running?
are the injectors pulsating?
are the plugs sparking?
are your cam sensor wires tested ok?
I had weeks and weeks of testing things till I fond the car ran on starter fluid after i fixed frayed cam wires only then did it jump a cel to diag the main prob, the ign timing was off because of a bad map.
you need to see if you can get a CEL out of that ecu and if not try unplugging the map or other sensors to get a cel.
i had this same problem on my car, had spark some times no fuel some times. allways start at the simplest thing. fuel and spark.
did you swap from a clip?
did you piece it togeter?
is the pump running?
are the injectors pulsating?
are the plugs sparking?
are your cam sensor wires tested ok?
I had weeks and weeks of testing things till I fond the car ran on starter fluid after i fixed frayed cam wires only then did it jump a cel to diag the main prob, the ign timing was off because of a bad map.
well i will be checking the pins to the ecu when i get down to the garage. before the ecu was repaired i wasnt getting voltage to pins +b and +b1 which are switched and i had posted a forum about that and they said that the ecu gets a signal from M-REL pin and the switch for +b and +b1 opens up so thats why i thought the ecu was the weak link and it made since when i opened it up and i saw a cap that shit black stuff on the board so thats where i took it. now idk if the ecu is still the weak link or if it is somewhere else. i might try jumping 12v to +b and see if that opens something up. at one point before the caps blew i jumped 12v and the light came on but my battery died and then after charging the battery then the caps blew so i might start there. is there anywhere in the engine harness to the body harness that jumps the M-REL?