Where to buy a TRD strut Bar
- Thread starter Suprastic
- Start date
it does something....
but the amount that it does compared to a McPherson strut setup mean that you should be devoting your time and money to things that do more...
but the amount that it does compared to a McPherson strut setup mean that you should be devoting your time and money to things that do more...
which is what we have...
granted, it will do a little, but swaybars, bushings, coilovers, ect will do a hell of a lot more...
granted, it will do a little, but swaybars, bushings, coilovers, ect will do a hell of a lot more...
suprahero said:You can make it fit with a little imagination, sawzall, and welder.
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How do you get that engine bay looking so good?:love:
IJ. said:...I won't rehash here...
You just did.
They don't do shit. At least nothing you could ever notice.
It's pretty much an ornament. (I have one...not TRD)
But I must say, that modified TRD bar looks the shizz!:bling:
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Yes it's for looks only. I didn't get it because I thought it was going to magically make my car ride like a new cadillac. I bought it because I think it looks good in my engine bay. Work Equips don't ride any better than factory sawblades, but for some reason people buy them ...............:dunno:
George, I had a little help with cleaning my engine bay from a Mississippian........:biglaugh:
George, I had a little help with cleaning my engine bay from a Mississippian........:biglaugh:
Bondango
Supra Specialists Ireland
KicknAsphlt said:
Do you know thats one of the ways to reduce under hood temps (with bulk head rubber removed) ??
no it won't, that's a high pressure area and will actually fight the air coming through the radiator, thus INCREASING underhood temps...
Bondango
Supra Specialists Ireland
Poodles, i know this subject has been beat to death. And im not going to get into a discussion about it. i will continue to run my 7m's this way. I have never had any dextrimental effect on cooling whilst the car was driving, and considerable lower under hood temps while stationary or in slow moving traffic.
My reasoning, well its Suffice it to say that the air which passes through the radiator is at high pressure (due to the stagnation point at the front of the vehicle). The air looses some pressure as it squeezes through the air passages of the radiator, but not that much. After that this high pressure air is "trapped" inside the engine compartment, with no where to go except down and out around the engine. Meanwhile the air which does not pass through the radiator mostly flows up and over the front edge of the hood. It must speed up to make this journey (and still conserve overall mass) thus the local pressure goes down. Add to this the fact that the air possibly separates into a local eddy as it turns the corner over the front edge of the hood and you have that there exists a local low pressure zone along the front portion of the hood. The net result of these flow patterns is a large plan area (the hood), with high pressure underneath it (pushing upwards), and low pressure above it (sucking upwards). Rasing the rear of the hood will vent the two pressure regions together. Let the high pressure air vent out to mix with the low pressure air.
Now i dont have a virtual wind tunnel, or hard data But It works for me and i'm happy. If i was driving a $90K track car, then i would be concerned about the pressure zones, but only for Aerodynmaic reasons. So i guess its each to their own, im happy with it.
My reasoning, well its Suffice it to say that the air which passes through the radiator is at high pressure (due to the stagnation point at the front of the vehicle). The air looses some pressure as it squeezes through the air passages of the radiator, but not that much. After that this high pressure air is "trapped" inside the engine compartment, with no where to go except down and out around the engine. Meanwhile the air which does not pass through the radiator mostly flows up and over the front edge of the hood. It must speed up to make this journey (and still conserve overall mass) thus the local pressure goes down. Add to this the fact that the air possibly separates into a local eddy as it turns the corner over the front edge of the hood and you have that there exists a local low pressure zone along the front portion of the hood. The net result of these flow patterns is a large plan area (the hood), with high pressure underneath it (pushing upwards), and low pressure above it (sucking upwards). Rasing the rear of the hood will vent the two pressure regions together. Let the high pressure air vent out to mix with the low pressure air.
Now i dont have a virtual wind tunnel, or hard data But It works for me and i'm happy. If i was driving a $90K track car, then i would be concerned about the pressure zones, but only for Aerodynmaic reasons. So i guess its each to their own, im happy with it.
they use cowl induction hoods on older muscles cars because of the high pressure zone there...
same reason that your ventilation system works at speed...
you can do what you want since it's your car, but there are far better ways to do what you are trying to do...
same reason that your ventilation system works at speed...
you can do what you want since it's your car, but there are far better ways to do what you are trying to do...
Bondango
Supra Specialists Ireland
Poodles said:
Well as i said, it works for me, even though that may be going against everything said on these forums. I will be fitting this to a my own hood soon when i find the time :icon_bigg
http://i22.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/b5/8f/3e45_1.JPG
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