What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
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Finally got all the little parts together to make the not so “universal” Mishimoto oil cooler work.
I removed my 10 year old 2-din player and installed these two, a Denon VU-Meter and the great sounding Pioneer Carrozzeria DEH-P01.
The rear was done 10 years ago.
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Changed out the fluid coupling (fan clutch) with a new Aisin one from Rock Auto because cooling has been weird lately.
No cream, but I lost enough coolant to see the temp gauge actually move. No drips either, so I tried the fan clutch after giving the old a spin test.
Things continue to be weird. If I leave the bottle at cold low it tends to do okay. If I fill it to cold full it fills up on a drive and I lose maybe an ounce.
People keep offering to buy the car even though the clearcoat has finally failed in many places. Maybe it is time to walk away...
No cream, but I lost enough coolant to see the temp gauge actually move. No drips either, so I tried the fan clutch after giving the old a spin test.
Things continue to be weird. If I leave the bottle at cold low it tends to do okay. If I fill it to cold full it fills up on a drive and I lose maybe an ounce.
People keep offering to buy the car even though the clearcoat has finally failed in many places. Maybe it is time to walk away...
Giving the fan blade a quick push clockwise, it shouldn't turn more than 1/3 turn. When a fan clutch goes bad, it starts slinging tiny drops of oil that end up on other belts. Things that can affect your cooling include the thermostat, radiator cap, and fan belt tension. Take a peek between the radiator and the AC condenser to see if there are any leaves, cobwebs, etc. obstructing airflow. Look into the radiator under the cap to see if it's overly corroded and choking. I ended up installing a Mishimoto all aluminum radiator to solve my heating issues. Cost about $400. Since then, the needle never goes above center and I don't have vapor lock after parking it warmed up for a while. The overflow tank does rise when the car heats up. I put mine between cold and hot levels. If you're having overflow problems, then it might be wise to check for exhaust gases getting into the cooling system. YouTube is a good place for tutorials. Amazon sells a radiator funnel that can be useful. Be aware when the thermostat opens up there can be a gush of air and fluid. Lay the cover on until it opens fully. If there's air in the system, and you don't go to full thermostat open, then it can backup and overfill the funnel. It appears that your cold start timer wiring is fraying. Separate the wires and put a glob of silicone sealant there.
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Nice catch on the wires, thanks for noting that. How I long for a new harness...
I am not sure if the fan clutch was dead or not, it is likely original. It had okay grab when cold and was surprisingly free when hot. Car seems to stay in the lower cool position more often with the new one installed. (I have never seen above center until things got weird recently.)
No leaves up front for me, they prefer to get stuck inside the fender near the doors lol.
The cylinders have been pressure tested and I haven't failed a block tester yet. I also had the heater core tested a few years back and replaced those gaskets and pipes through the firewall.
Thermo was only a couple years old, I replaced it and remove the jiggle as the old school guys recommend. I also use the amazing yellow burping funnel and burp on an incline, so I feel good about that.
Cap is maybe a year old, cleaned and checked for pitting. Seems good, and no crud on attachment point.
I have also been hearing weird sounds from behind the glove compartment for the past few years. Not the more central waterfall in the heater core, but like a clicking or sucking and much more to the right. I read a thread once where 87240-14140 (valve assy, water heater) can lead to air in cooling system, so I am thinking of replacing that since it is available and is in the right place. And about the only part of the system I haven't replaced lol. Well, that and the radiator. But I am not quite ready for that. How does the Mishimoto fit? Any trouble with the stock fan shroud or do you have lose that?
I am not sure if the fan clutch was dead or not, it is likely original. It had okay grab when cold and was surprisingly free when hot. Car seems to stay in the lower cool position more often with the new one installed. (I have never seen above center until things got weird recently.)
No leaves up front for me, they prefer to get stuck inside the fender near the doors lol.
The cylinders have been pressure tested and I haven't failed a block tester yet. I also had the heater core tested a few years back and replaced those gaskets and pipes through the firewall.
Thermo was only a couple years old, I replaced it and remove the jiggle as the old school guys recommend. I also use the amazing yellow burping funnel and burp on an incline, so I feel good about that.
Cap is maybe a year old, cleaned and checked for pitting. Seems good, and no crud on attachment point.
I have also been hearing weird sounds from behind the glove compartment for the past few years. Not the more central waterfall in the heater core, but like a clicking or sucking and much more to the right. I read a thread once where 87240-14140 (valve assy, water heater) can lead to air in cooling system, so I am thinking of replacing that since it is available and is in the right place. And about the only part of the system I haven't replaced lol. Well, that and the radiator. But I am not quite ready for that. How does the Mishimoto fit? Any trouble with the stock fan shroud or do you have lose that?
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The weird sounds to the far right could be something rubbing against the blower squirrel cage. I've only had problems with the heater valve vacuum actuator in the past. You can check its function by looking before and after turning it on that the shaft moves up and you feel heat. The valve wouldn't allow air in, it would only leak coolant. Here's a link to the other Supra forum detailing the installation of the Mishimoto radiator. It did take some cobbling and dry fitting before I was ready to fill it with coolant. I was able to reuse the OEM shroud, but I had to grind down a upper standoff that was higher than the other side. I also used some Duck brand black sticky foam tape to seal gaps for maximum cooling.
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