q45 tuning and auto problems

[JesseH]

Ok, first off anyone who has any experience with the Q45 throttle body, how did you set it up? as in where did you set the stoppers, and how did you calibraite the TPS? I jumped on a nissan board reading through the threads and heard it was better to ajust it from voltage rather than the ohm readings, bnut they really didnt give any detail on how to do it. Also, is there some form of a dash pot on the q45? I car keeps wanting to bog and die out on decelleration.

On the auto question, i cant seem to get the tranny to shift electrically, I can disconnect the ECT box and shift 1 L-2-D and im ok. But with it plugged in it only stays in the current gear. So far ive checked my connectors and my grounds....is there something im missing?

any help would be great

 

[JesseH]

bump

 

[p5150]

did you take into consideration the temperature-controlled butterfly stop? I assume you are running a stock ecu? I have an AEM so I just configured it like it told me to.

I think that some people may be using a Ford TPS. The best thing I could tell you is to look at the TSRM specs for the TPS and try to replicate it as close as possible with the Q45 tps.....

 

[JesseH]

did you take into consideration the temperature-controlled butterfly stop? I assume you are running a stock ecu? I have an AEM so I just configured it like it told me to.

I think that some people may be using a Ford TPS. The best thing I could tell you is to look at the TSRM specs for the TPS and try to replicate it as close as possible with the Q45 tps.....

yea, its still the stock ECU, I have a buddy who lended me his q45 that has been setup for the supra so I could take note on how he set everything, only problem is hes on a AEM also so that doesnt work as well for me

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

I wil give you a hand later.....Done this and made a post on here some where about this.

 

[JesseH]

I wil give you a hand later.....Done this and made a post on here some where about this.

ok thanks that would be great

 

[JesseH]

i know people have had this problem before.......

 

[jt2ma71]

I am using a ford tps on mine so can't help you there. But the bogging/stalling issue, I fixed mine by adding some timing when throttle is closed and at ~2000rpm, that's acting like a dash pot. You can't do that with the stock ECU. So...you can try raising the idle speed a little, I know that did it for me but I didn't like the higher idle speed.
Do you have the coolant lines hooked up to the q45 tb?

 

[JesseH]

I am using a ford tps on mine so can't help you there. But the bogging/stalling issue, I fixed mine by adding some timing when throttle is closed and at ~2000rpm, that's acting like a dash pot. You can't do that with the stock ECU. So...you can try raising the idle speed a little, I know that did it for me but I didn't like the higher idle speed.
Do you have the coolant lines hooked up to the q45 tb?

no, the coolant lines are not hooked up, Im still using the stock ISC on the FFIM

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

The little screw in the front with the nut helps adjust idele speed. Also the screw with the spring on the butterfly also has a part iin it. The smaller screw by loosening it will lower idle speeed I think. The coolant lines when hooked up will allow the car to idle properly when it gets hot. When the coolant lines are not hooked up the plunger on the TB stays out forcing more air into the intake until it warms up and closes enough to slow idle. Loosening all screws reduces idle speed when cold, but to have your car running perfect without idle speed from the Q45, you need to play with settings on the spring loaded idle adjustment, then loosen or tighten the smaller scrw in the very front with the little nut on it to make it run perfectly.

 

[JesseH]

The little screw in the front with the nut helps adjust idele speed. Also the screw with the spring on the butterfly also has a part iin it. The smaller screw by loosening it will lower idle speeed I think. The coolant lines when hooked up will allow the car to idle properly when it gets hot. When the coolant lines are not hooked up the plunger on the TB stays out forcing more air into the intake until it warms up and closes enough to slow idle. Loosening all screws reduces idle speed when cold, but to have your car running perfect without idle speed from the Q45, you need to play with settings on the spring loaded idle adjustment, then loosen or tighten the smaller scrw in the very front with the little nut on it to make it run perfectly.

thanks for the pointers, that helps, i wanted to make sure before I go messing with them too much. and how often do the q45 TPS's go bad? im begining to think mine is going out, i get it set to spec (and all my wiring is correct) I can take it for a quick spin, runs good then the next sec it chokes around 2k RPM as if the IDL validation circut is falting. with the sensor and the wiring fully secure i can tap on the sensor and my idle will flux.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

thanks for the pointers, that helps, i wanted to make sure before I go messing with them too much. and how often do the q45 TPS's go bad? im begining to think mine is going out, i get it set to spec (and all my wiring is correct) I can take it for a quick spin, runs good then the next sec it chokes around 2k RPM as if the IDL validation circut is falting. with the sensor and the wiring fully secure i can tap on the sensor and my idle will flux.

Adjust the little screw in the front with the nut while it is cold. You want to get idle to lower correct. No matter if you really want it to work hooking up the water lines is what makes them work perfectly. The heat from collant causes the plunger to close when it heats up to a certain temp.

 

[adampecush]

you can always remove that plunger system completely if it causes too many problems...

 

[jt2ma71]

Correct me if I'm wrong, the top allen screw with the lock nut is the throttle stop. it should be adjusted while the motor is at normal operating temps. this is the hot idle speed adjustment. If at normal temps, your rev drops to almost stalling, and there are no other issues, try raising the idle speed a little.
When cold, the plunger does not really open the throttle plate because you don't have the coolant lines hooked up. Besides, the stock ISC is hooked up and does the same thing, let's more air in when cold. I am assuming you don't have a problem with cold starts.

 

[adampecush]

Correct me if I'm wrong, the top allen screw with the lock nut is the throttle stop.

you are correct on that point, but not regarding the plunger. With no coolant lines hooked up or the lines hooked up and a cold engine, the plunger is fully extended, keeping the throttle plate open. With the plunger in place and the coolant lines unhooked, it is the plunger that acts as the throttle stop, not the allen screw you made reference too. With the plunger removed, the allen screw now completely controls the "fully closed" position of the throttle plate.

 

[jt2ma71]

you are correct on that point, but not regarding the plunger. With no coolant lines hooked up or the lines hooked up and a cold engine, the plunger is fully extended, keeping the throttle plate open. With the plunger in place and the coolant lines unhooked, it is the plunger that acts as the throttle stop, not the allen screw you made reference too. With the plunger removed, the allen screw now completely controls the "fully closed" position of the throttle plate.

so the plunger should be removed if not hooked up to coolant lines, to avoid any idling problems.

 

[adampecush]

exactly

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Correct me if I'm wrong, the top allen screw with the lock nut is the throttle stop. it should be adjusted while the motor is at normal operating temps. this is the hot idle speed adjustment. If at normal temps, your rev drops to almost stalling, and there are no other issues, try raising the idle speed a little.
When cold, the plunger does not really open the throttle plate because you don't have the coolant lines hooked up. Besides, the stock ISC is hooked up and does the same thing, let's more air in when cold. I am assuming you don't have a problem with cold starts.

The plunger will open if you are in cold winters like I have in NY, or when the engine is cold. Mine idled high until the tb heated up from driving. The small screw also adjust idle adjustment Ron. This adjust how far the buterfly opens also. When this and the screw on the throttle linkage are adjusted it controls how everything works in accordance with the plunger. I could make it idle any way I anted when adjusting these screws however you must remember that the plunger must be cold to disable high idle at coooler temps.

 

[IJ.]

The Trans needs the signals from the stock TPS to shift.