Project Super Slow

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
Recently purchased this '87 N/A with a dead engine from a friend. They said it had a slight knock.

Current Plans:
Plasti-Dip white for the time being
Black Interior. I will be painting/dying a lot of the parts and using black suede.
7mgte or 2jz swap. (Have a big decision here)
Set up for Auto-X and local twisty roads.
Lots of carbon fiber, though it will be painted
HID Retro-Fit.
Proper Tint

My main issue right now is the Engine. I was planning on rebuilding the N/A and running it while I built a 7mgte. The current engine is more than gone. It sounds like you are pounding a giant metal sheet with a sledge hammer.

I have two engines currently sourced:
A 7mgte that is torn apart and needs put back together. Though it is complete or a 2jzge VVT-i with no throttle body, alternator, or wiring harness. I am trying to decide which route to go down. Price will most likely be the deciding factor.

On to the Pictures:
391685_10151240668676011_1428576555_n.jpg

304340_10151242118526011_1869455531_n.jpg

189205_10151242118816011_1274151309_n.jpg

320331_10151242119491011_1207540818_n.jpg

199913_10151242133026011_541634167_n.jpg

560597_10151242133296011_1852633273_n.jpg

374539_10151242133526011_2011033830_n.jpg

65539_10151242134086011_1197676072_n.jpg

579827_10151242134461011_1546789702_n.jpg

Came with the car

Questions
Any Idea what these are for? Found them in the trunk:
12675_10151242135101011_542704884_n.jpg


Also where does this go?
46225_10151242135426011_532787830_n.jpg


The previous owner told me they kept going bad and to just leave it off, but I believe this may be the cause of the auto locks not working.
The light failure control module was also in the trunk for the same reason, and I think it might be the reason I only get high beams no matter what, and the high beam light in the gauge cluster does not light up.
 
Last edited:

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Enginewise, either direction isnt gonna be super cheap to do correctly.. but if you can afford it, I would go the 2jz vvti. The folks at Kaizen motorsports know that engine quite well (they have a vendor forum here).
Take your time, do it right. If you dont know.. ask. This forum has some excellent people in it.
Are you going black with the car or blue? I really like the midnight blue (not sure what the color is called) with good rims on it. I think I have a photo of my old one...
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
Thanks, I'll get a hold of them. I am not sure what Color I am going. I still have a long time to decide, but it's between Black, midnight blue, and a very dark metallic grey.
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
gats;1882333 said:
The blue gaskets are for the rear main oil seal retainer:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=63

Door control relay lives in the door, and yes without it installed you will have no central locking.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=014

Good luck :)

Awesome! Thanks. I see now why the control units would fail. Leaking taillight gaskets, which lots of people seem to have. Guess I need to source new ones and seal the lights.
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
Plan for the car is to change it into a 300-350rwhp reliable daily/weekend racer. Not build for speed, but built to out handle most cars on the road. (sorta) On to progress Pictures from today.

293799_10151248181361011_1428116814_n.jpg

Not too bad

3583_10151248181421011_170169266_n.jpg

The antenna? I am just going to take it out. PO installed it for whatever reason.

185153_10151248181521011_682119259_n.jpg

water from the leaking hatch :/

552393_10151248181281011_1055674598_n.jpg


374139_10151248181691011_627499211_n.jpg


576915_10151248181881011_55374638_n.jpg


578544_10151248181996011_900817052_n.jpg

Stripped but dirty, the drivers side seat are ridiculously heavy! Going to a semi-racing seat will save so much weight.

545487_10151248182176011_570017869_n.jpg

sorta clean...

75125_10151248182086011_796369152_n.jpg

Up on jack stands and Hood unscrewed ready for engine removal.

I have just chosen to go with the 7mgte. It is going to be cheaper and I will be able to make the power I want.
 

AbsoluteSpeed

Member
Aug 8, 2007
735
0
16
Edmonton AB
Well it didn't take you long to start tearing this thing appart.
The leak in the hatch is most likely the gaskets around the tail lights.

Goodluck with your build.
 

ryansmith

New Member
Mar 25, 2012
541
0
0
New Zealand
Looking good, bet it's a lot of fun tearing it down to reveal what's under all the interior, let me know if it is the rear tail light gaskets, I'm getting slight water in my hatch too.
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
AbsoluteSpeed;1883163 said:
Well it didn't take you long to start tearing this thing appart.
The leak in the hatch is most likely the gaskets around the tail lights.

Goodluck with your build.

I enjoy stripping cars. You learn a lot about the car, as well as previous owners. Found a medicine bottle filled with unknown substance, a syringe, and a spoon wrapped up in the drivers side fender.
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
A couple things to look for... Spray water upwards on the tiny hatch side windows to check the seals there. Mk3 hatches aren't problematic but they can rust if someone has played around with the trim.. Generally though, the rubber seal stands up well so if it appears unripped, it's usually tight. Brake light seals are easy to spot when they go because you get water where your seeing it as well as in the spare tire hold. The worst places are the rear wheel wells (wire brush off the undercoat) and the quarter panels where the wheel well meets the panel. I'm pretty certain the rust begins from tiny holes in the wheel well under the coating allowing dust inside which fills the tight areas and absorbs condensation to start the rust process.
I have only seen 2 hatches leak.. Both were JDM.

Also look at the rear subframe for rust/cracks if you plan to up the power past 400 rwhp. I have read a lot of threads with issues there. (I want to drop and rebuild mine eventually)
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
The drivers side rear quarter window is leaking, visible rust. The hatch seal is ripped, and the driver side taillight doesnt have bottom nuts. 'll get more pictures either today or Tuesday. Need to finish stripping the interior and start the engine removal.

Also if anyone knows where to get replacment seat pads for Bride Brix II's?
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
I am hoping it's not too hard.

Did Find out the car is actually an '86.5. Manufactured August of '86

Then found some things that worry me today:

First Off, Moved the c900 out of the way to give plenty of room for the Supra
8092503266_231c0b2d7b_k.jpg


Then got into the Interior. First off. The Doors will lock, but they won't unlock using the door switches. I am guessing the door lock module is dead again. The previous owner said they kept going out and he just quit replacing them. Seems the extras he had all had water damage?

Then I got to the Dash. Which had all of 1 nut and 2 screws in the entire thing... Not sure who was in the dash last, but they did a HORRID job of it. Also made a mess of the wiring:
8092428999_8f64b46601_c.jpg

8092430277_d1e67806c1_c.jpg

8092441224_e536555613_z.jpg


What is the plug for? It wasn't plugged in anywhere.

Also when I followed that big red wire.
8092436021_bcce821073_z.jpg


That is the ECU...
8092437709_39a0cc02d0_c.jpg


The wires that are spliced in lead to this:
8092438326_66699db603.jpg


8092433255_f823780eb2_z.jpg

What plug goes here? if it is easy to point out haha.

But Dash is out!:
8092424055_4185e90cc2_z.jpg

8092422333_01e3c3cef9_z.jpg


The rust I was talking about:
8092425533_5f65436217_z.jpg


Found a Leak from washing the engine before removal, Right side by ECU (LHD):
8092447124_57d1cd9c39_z.jpg


Cleaned up, ready for removal:
8092433928_ff6128059a_z.jpg
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
Some updates today. Really happy:

Tokico Blues. Are these any good? Heard they are rebuildable, are they worth getting rebuilt?
581517_10151252422066011_918321195_n.jpg


Eibach's:
223254_10151252422446011_1973707532_n.jpg


LSD!! I about died. Super excited:
3582_10151252423671011_7310779_n.jpg


is there any way to find out if the car has a r154? or a w58? without pulling the trans?

Is this a stock sway bar? (front)
550711_10151252423106011_189674514_n.jpg


No Antenna? Should there be one here?
554255_10151252424391011_1356243842_n.jpg


306589_10151252424946011_208085854_n.jpg


Ready to pull the rear subframe. Does anyone have instructions on how to do so? I'll be searching, but figured it never hearts to ask/have multiple answers
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
5
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
7mgte had the R154 ge had the w58
There is a serial number plate by the brake master that has a code on other that will tell all

I will be back later to hook you up with some important web links for tech info.
As for the shocks, they are good but it depends on your final goal with the car and how your going to drive. I went overkill and added HSD coilovers but could have just stuck with stock suspension. Because your pulling the rear subframe, I would consider coilovers. I would recommend you steer away from Megan's unless your gonna mainly drift. Stance and HSD are relatively the same.
More info later from my hunts...
 

DustinS

Supramania Contributor
Oct 9, 2012
82
0
0
Springfield, MO
Awesome Thanks. I knew the difference in Trans between gte and ge. Seeing as how one of the PO's installed an LSD, I was wondering if they might have swapped to the r154.

I plan on driving the car hard, My best friend(more like a big brother) owns a 350z he has built for road racing, I hope to be to keep up with him. So Coilovers are the end goal, but right now Shocks with springs will do. I want to get the car on the road as soon as possible, so subframe won't be off for long. enough to get paint, new bushings, and Weir Stage 1 LSD kit I plan on ordering next week.