Project Super Slow

[DustinS]

Thanks, I did soak it in some pretty strong not-so-diluted degreaser, then made sure to take a stiff brush in there to clean as much stuff off as possible. Could have been cleaner, but I felt comfortable with how clean it turned out.

LED's for cluster and other Misc. Projects, I already have white at home.

^ Should be here Friday or Saturday with a water temp gauge. Already have an Evo Green/White Volt gauge I will use.

I think I am going to go with Green Gauge Numbers with white pointers... not sure yet.

Would match my 9-5 custom needle color:

or match the new 9-5 cluster - Green Needles, white numbers:

 

[DustinS]

The LEDs are a bit on the big side

I'm not completely happy with the results, but I think it came out pretty good. The needles won't be so bright. The 12v source I was using was actually 15-16vdc which is closer to the 14v the alternator should put out.

Volt gauge in place(needs more trimming to sit further in)

Brand new master rusting already :/

I have more Pictures, but they were taken with my camera. I'll have those up tonight.

 

[DustinS]

Just ordered a lot more LED's and wire to redo the gauge cluster to try and get rid of the glare. Also need to modify the needle on the Prosport gauges to be green. Should be interesting to see how that goes.
More Pictures: (The pictures I was going to post the other night were not very good.)

 

[DustinS]

 

[DustinS]

Was up late last night and made an impulse buy:

Two On/Off switches

One Momentary Switch and another part to make it harder to steal.

Going to go for a Keyless push button ignition, WHILE retaining the ability to use the key if I want. Shouldn't be too hard, but I guess i'll see when I get to installing it. :roll:

Should be in the 60's after I get off work, so plan on getting some painting and out-of-car engine and trans work done today. Hopefully mate up the trans to the engine.

 

[DustinS]

Made a lot of progress today... In the wrong direction. After looking it over, we found the Cams to be way off when on top dead center. The guy I bought the engine from said it was fine. There have been so many bolts/nuts missing or used in the wrong place. So I decided to start over.

Top Dead Center. When I spoke to the PO of the engine, He said the crank was crap(they all are crap is what he said) and that the Cams were set right for Top dead center.

Here are how far the cams were off:

This is at true TDC. The crank was right after all. When I told him he was wrong, and they were not set right. He told me that he had taken them off before I came to pick up the engine and he may have installed them incorrectly. Great... So now is when I start doubting EVERYTHING this guy ever told me. Set the cams for TDC and decided there was enough wrong with the engine, we might as well strip it down and start from scratch so we know absolutely what was done.

Back Plate off to be cleaned and painted.

Upper Intake Manifold off. Going to swap it with the one from my old engine.

He said it had all brand new gaskets. I kinda doubt it. Who would install a valve cover without a proper gasket??

Wire Brushing the rear cam gear cover.

After all the work

Polishing/cleaning the heat shields

The thermostat housing has been taken off since this photo

The Alternator was taken off after this photo.

The Buttons were way smaller than I had expected. Ordered two bigger ones for the actually on/off switches. I think the smaller momentary one will work being small.

 

[Rollus]

I'm following for a while..

Good luck with the engine.

Other the too small push button, maybe they fit in the door key lock..

 

[DustinS]

Thanks. Unfortunately they are non momentary switches, so they won't be of use in the doors. I will just have to find a use elsewhere.

What is this used for, and should I fix it?

I was also wondering if I could delete the charcoal canister. I did it on my old c900 and didn't see any adverse affects. Though some people report more fuel smell with it gone. It is very unsightly and would love to get a more clean look

 

[whitehat89]

If memory serves me correct, thats your heater control valve. I never use my heat down here in Texas lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[DustinS]

I figured that is what it was.

 

[yhatzee89]

Yeah but in MO you get both ends of the spectrum as far as weather goes. Stupid hot summers and arctic ice cold winters, they just got 6" the other day at my house up in Sedalia

 

[DustinS]

As you can see, it's broken and zip tied. I'll try and fix it soon

 

[supraguy@aol]

That part is a common failure point.
You can remove the charcoal cannister, but once you cap off the lines i think you need to change out the fuel cap to a venting type.

 

[877MGTEGUY]

nice i have a blue inter also can i die the seats black if so what die and wear can i get it

 

[877MGTEGUY]

have a 87 with the same leak i am gunna check the lights i love this site

 

[whitehat89]

I do know that you can buy a heater control valve for a Toyota Corolla / Geo Prism if Im not mistaken, should be cheaper than the OEM replacement

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[DustinS]

Looking at getting a vented gas cap in the near future. Updates!!

Before:

After:

Pearl Black from VHT. Looks great.

I swear the more I tear into this engine. The less I think it had only 1000 miles on a mild rebuild with completely new gaskets and a good cleaning. Most of these "New Gaskets" I have been taking off have been homemade with cereal boxes and old cardboard.

More Painting of parts

I am going to paint the timing marks white.

I am actually going to strip them down again and try to polish them. The blue is actually transparent and will look really good with the polished metal underneath

 

[Grandavi]

Same happened to me. 30,000 km on a rebuild and when I climbed in for a simple repair noticed things that dragged me deeper and deeper until I ended up replacing the shortblock. At least I know where I sit now

 

[DustinS]

Pretty much where I am at. We(my grandpa and I) were talking about possibly taking the head off and making sure everything is okay from the cams being off so much. Final conclusion was not to worry about it. Build it up right from the Bare block and head. Going to shim the oil pump and check to make sure all the bolts in the bottom end are torqued correctly. It's a lot more work than I originally had planned, but I want this engine to last for a good time, it will be beat on pretty hard. Auto-X and country back roads are on the agenda.

Got some things from pick-and-pull. Good cluster with good clear lens and vents. Will need to modify it for the eventual turbo build. Third set of valve covers for testing.

 

[DustinS]

I hate updating my thread for small stuff, but If I don't I will forget.

Got my Morimoto Mini H1 projectors out of the old 7x6 housings they were in. Ordered new housing. May try a sleepy eye mod with custom bracket. I am following the sleepy eye mod w/ projector thread pretty closely.

Also got the 19mm buttons for the push start ignition. Went ahead and ordered a 22mm to see if I like it better. Still waiting on LED's, RFID stuff, headlight housings, and two more switches to come in the mail.

Currently looking for a front bumper, passenger side headlight cover, and a driver side outer door handle. I think I might try fixing it will epoxy putty. The door is getting painted anyway. I do need to get in and modify the light ring to a better light before that though.

edit: Just got my 0603 and 1206 LED's in the mail. Also got my RFID system. Wish the car was running so I could start on the Electronic side of things.