1986.5supra_kid;1958755 said:
Theres enough clearance to get bolts in there, but I'm planning on using studs.
Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.
- Thread starter supraguy@aol
- Start date
Theres enough clearance to get bolts in there, but I'm planning on using studs.
Moving like molasses on my car.
Just did a little drilling yesterday, on the water elbow. Added another temp sensor for a warning light.
Just did a little drilling yesterday, on the water elbow. Added another temp sensor for a warning light.
Starting to finally do more work to the car.
Finally finishing up the dp. I'll post a couple pics once its heat wrapped.
Then i can finally start on the rest of the exhaust. Also, just ordered a jza70 oem lip...from Saudi Arabia...
Here's to hoping that it actually shows up.
Finally finishing up the dp. I'll post a couple pics once its heat wrapped.
Then i can finally start on the rest of the exhaust. Also, just ordered a jza70 oem lip...from Saudi Arabia...
Here's to hoping that it actually shows up.
Need more updates! That jza lip you ordered is that the one with the break ducts? That's what I am going to try to find. Also I am working on my turbo spacer now I see you went with 2 1/2 inch spacers do you think there is clearance in the car for anything bigger?
chesky911;1963500 said:
I just ordered them from Advanced, i think. ANY big car parts store should be able to get you a pair within a day or two.
Jay C;1963505 said:
Yeah, the lip is made for the brake ducts, but this one does not include the ducts themselves. Those are something I can hunt down later.
As for the turbo spacers, I think there may be a bit more room to raise the turbo without hitting the hood, but not much. The problem I encountered, was trying to find studs long enough to use with just two spacers. I would imagine if you went any larger, that you might need to use threaded rod instead.
So looking back to post #63...
I'm installing my "new zealand" aftermarket front subframe bushings and I noticed that the OD of the stainless cylinder is smaller than the stock bushing stainless cylinder. I was planning on re-using the stock upper bushing caps. The stock upper bushings caps ID have the smallest clearance with the bolts that go through the frame of the car, and they are snug on the stock larger OD steel cylinder. Now with the increased clearance between the stock cap and aftermarket stainless cylinder I wondering if the subframe will be able to move around. Did you re-use the stock upper bushing caps? Did you notice a bunch of slop between the frame bolts and the subframe bushing setup? I guess I could build some sort of spacer to take up the gap between the stock upper cap and the new stainless cylinder. thoughts?
I'm installing my "new zealand" aftermarket front subframe bushings and I noticed that the OD of the stainless cylinder is smaller than the stock bushing stainless cylinder. I was planning on re-using the stock upper bushing caps. The stock upper bushings caps ID have the smallest clearance with the bolts that go through the frame of the car, and they are snug on the stock larger OD steel cylinder. Now with the increased clearance between the stock cap and aftermarket stainless cylinder I wondering if the subframe will be able to move around. Did you re-use the stock upper bushing caps? Did you notice a bunch of slop between the frame bolts and the subframe bushing setup? I guess I could build some sort of spacer to take up the gap between the stock upper cap and the new stainless cylinder. thoughts?
Well, to be honest, that was a year and a half ago for me, and I don't recall having any gap/ spacing issues, but I did reuse my top caps.
On another note, I FINALLY got the Dp completed, and wrapped.
On another note, I FINALLY got the Dp completed, and wrapped.
Been debating heat wrapping my DP. Not sure how much heat the SP6265 will add seeing as I won't be rally driving or anything fun like that. Huge difference in engine bay temp by wrapping the DP?
Well, it's suppose to make a big difference, and I don't think it matters if you race or just drive.
Alot of heat comes off the manifold and exhaust, especially if it's stainless tubing vs cast iron. My mani is iron so I didn't wrap it.
Alot of heat comes off the manifold and exhaust, especially if it's stainless tubing vs cast iron. My mani is iron so I didn't wrap it.
My mani is cast (HKS Longrunner), putting a blanket in the turbo, didn't know if I should wrap the DP. It's stainless and wastegate vents to atmosphere. Was also debating reintegrating the wastegate, but am curious what it sounds like... Lol
So, I'm sorry for lately not having the same fast & furious pace that I maintained during the engine assembly, but I'm starting to see some light at the end of the "drivetrain tunnel". Stage 2 is nearing its end. Once the exhaust is completed and the fuel pump rewire/Aeromotive install is done, I get to move on to body work.
I have switched bodywork and interior around because it just makes more sense: If I did all the interior work/ reassembly, I'd have to remove part of it again for painting.
Some of the different stages will of course, overlap; I have to pause on MAFT pro and ecu wiring since I have to take out the dash, and I will remove some interior items to better access some of the bodywork. But it'll all flow logically, I hope. Anyway, I started tacking some more of the exhaust together-
V-band flange>3"section>3" QTP cutout>catalytic converter(yes, I'm a treehugger)>Magnaflow muffler. I didn't take a pic of it yet, but maybe tomorrow.
The electric cutout sits up nicely out of the way, just behind the transmission mount. In fact, the whole exhaust sits up almost as high as I'd hoped. I don't think I'll scrape anything, unless I screw the coilovers way down low, which I'm not likely to do. Next will be another 3" v-band, then a quick upper S-turn towards the rear Borla muffler. Also, I tacked the two obnoxiously-large softball cannons onto the Borla. The center Magnaflow muffler is so damn big, that I'm going to have to 'massage' some of the rear tunnel out of its way.
QTP cutout and 3" 316 tubing:
My big exit:
Don't seem that big?
Here's one of my XL man-hands for scale:
So anyway, I'll be dropping the exhaust off at a fabrication shop for tig welding; I had originally planned to mig weld in stainless, but my skills are just too sub-par compared to the tig'ing that these guys do.
I have switched bodywork and interior around because it just makes more sense: If I did all the interior work/ reassembly, I'd have to remove part of it again for painting.
Some of the different stages will of course, overlap; I have to pause on MAFT pro and ecu wiring since I have to take out the dash, and I will remove some interior items to better access some of the bodywork. But it'll all flow logically, I hope. Anyway, I started tacking some more of the exhaust together-
V-band flange>3"section>3" QTP cutout>catalytic converter(yes, I'm a treehugger)>Magnaflow muffler. I didn't take a pic of it yet, but maybe tomorrow.
The electric cutout sits up nicely out of the way, just behind the transmission mount. In fact, the whole exhaust sits up almost as high as I'd hoped. I don't think I'll scrape anything, unless I screw the coilovers way down low, which I'm not likely to do. Next will be another 3" v-band, then a quick upper S-turn towards the rear Borla muffler. Also, I tacked the two obnoxiously-large softball cannons onto the Borla. The center Magnaflow muffler is so damn big, that I'm going to have to 'massage' some of the rear tunnel out of its way.
QTP cutout and 3" 316 tubing:
My big exit:
Don't seem that big?
Here's one of my XL man-hands for scale:
So anyway, I'll be dropping the exhaust off at a fabrication shop for tig welding; I had originally planned to mig weld in stainless, but my skills are just too sub-par compared to the tig'ing that these guys do.
So, I finally got the time and motivation today, to tack up the rest of the exhaust.
Went pretty smoothly, just took awhile to cut and test all the pieces.
Once I was done, I threw the two sections in the truck and drove them down to the fabricators, to TIG up.
Then I installed the copper locknuts onto the wastegate...
Then I removed my(unused) theft deterrent horn, and used that space to mount my MAP sensor...
Exhaust won't be done till Tuesday or Wednesday, so in the meantime, I might work on the fuel pump relay mod, and pump install.
Went pretty smoothly, just took awhile to cut and test all the pieces.
Once I was done, I threw the two sections in the truck and drove them down to the fabricators, to TIG up.
Then I installed the copper locknuts onto the wastegate...
Then I removed my(unused) theft deterrent horn, and used that space to mount my MAP sensor...
Exhaust won't be done till Tuesday or Wednesday, so in the meantime, I might work on the fuel pump relay mod, and pump install.
Where did you get the stainless tubing? And, if you don't mind me asking, what the whole exhaust cost?
I had thought about building a new exhaust but the price of the stainless pipe adds up quickly.
I had thought about building a new exhaust but the price of the stainless pipe adds up quickly.
I got all the tubing on Ebay, all 316.
LOL...I've been keeping precise score on every dollar I spend on the car, broken down into systems...
To date, the exhaust sytem(not including the welder/ supplies that I bought) has run about $1,100.
That includes all tubing, elbows, flanges, clamps, cutout, 2 mufflers, tips, cat, wrap, O2 sensor, and labor.
I fully expected the system to cost about a grand, so I'm not surprised by it.
LOL...I've been keeping precise score on every dollar I spend on the car, broken down into systems...
To date, the exhaust sytem(not including the welder/ supplies that I bought) has run about $1,100.
That includes all tubing, elbows, flanges, clamps, cutout, 2 mufflers, tips, cat, wrap, O2 sensor, and labor.
I fully expected the system to cost about a grand, so I'm not surprised by it.