How high can you safely boost a mostly stock 7mgte? New to forums!.

[Onemanwolfpack85]

Hey everyone! Well im new to the supra scene and forums my names Geo.! had a couple of s13s before but just recently picked up an 87' mk3 turbo and have a newb question id like to ask before the fun begins How much can i boost this baby to safely? car has slight modifications: Metal head gasket, ARP head studs, Huge k&n air filter (like a foot long lol), 3 in down pipe to full 3 in 5zigen exhaust and trd alluminum rad. Any help would definitely be appreciated! thanks!

 

[planemos]

ARP headstuds and metal HG is a great start! As long as it was done right (proper machine work to make the head and block flat/resurfaced). There is quite a few options for you it seems. There is lots of research you can do here. I like supraforums.com too. At this point I would suggest to you a better intercooler and a boost controller. And gauges to moniter what's going on with your engine. It's all up to you how far you want to take it. Welcome to SM as well!

 

[Onemanwolfpack85]

^^ thanks! and well seems like things were done right, internal work was done about 7k miles ago (got reciepts from reputable shop which did all the work) so i think i can say its going to be fine.! i have a boost gauge and turbo timer i also just installed and a boost controller on stand by just waitin on some numbers to go by!? Car is going to be daily driven, occaissional canyon and spirited drives on the highway but not lookin to build internals or anything (at least not at this point)

 

[Turbo Habanero]

Safe to boost 12psi with your setup although so me cars will hit fuel cut around 12 others do not(climate and altitude plays big part). So just dial your car in as close to 12 as possible with out hitting fuel cut is what I would do if your looking for peak safe power.

Also a stock ct-26 turbo is only good to 15psi max. But most would not recommend more then 12psi on it with out extra fuel!

Sounds like you got your self a good supra though just take care of her and check them fluids often.

 

[Onemanwolfpack85]

I see.. So I'm thinkin about setting her between 10 and 11 psi in case she spike a pound or 2. For now though. Maybe in a couple weeks or in a few months il do the nxt line up of upgrades like better fmic, injectors and fuel pump if necessary. Other than that turbo seems really healthy with no shaft play no smoke and minimal lag so 10-11 is comin today! ..soon as I get outta bed ;0 ..lol. And yea definitely checking the fluids at least once a week.! Only problem now is cold starts I have to sit there and give it gas till it reaches normal op. temp. I hear this is a common issue on these cars/engines?

 

[SupraClaou]

No. Cold starts is not a common problem with our cars. Hot start is a little though,while hesitates (starts from 400rpms) to reach the correct iddle.
You might have an issue with the cold start injector and you got to start from there. Our cars with a 7MGTE has a 7th injector right in the middle
of the intake plenum located in the under section. If this is OK,then maybe the issue might be with the EFI temp. sensor on the thermostat housing
that might effect your cold start/iddling. Good luck with your new toy. You are gonna love this car,only keep it healthy with the proper parts and let
people to work on your car that know mk3 Supras very well. And last the Supramania community is the ultimate help,at least for me it was!

 

[Nick M]

Assuming the long block doesn't have 20 pluse years of wear and tear, you can go about 12 psi before fuel cut. Give or take with weather.

 

[Onemanwolfpack85]

I had no idea on that 7th injector lol but good to know and yes il be lookin into it possibly today as well since it's my day day off. Like I said new to the 7m motors so il try to do most of the research and if theres any unanswered ?'s il ask around on the forums. Thanks guys for all your help so far only my second day on the forums and I've gotten some pretty good input!

 

[Onemanwolfpack85]

<delete>

 

[IndigoMKII]

10-11 sounds like a very safe number, make sure the bypass valve is operating good or it might start to barely leak as the numbers get higher. You could also highly benefit from a nice hardpipe kit and a more efficient IC seeing as the psi drop is a few pounds with the stock IC/piping. Check for boost leaks as well so that the little stock CT can be as efficient as it can be lol.

 

[spoolme]

i would like to point out that even if a reputable shop rebuilt anything on the car and it has a MLS head gasket and ARPS that in all the books, the specs for the torque for the head bolts are only 58 ftlbs. So it might be a good idea and maybe go in and re-torque them to about 80-90.

 

[IndigoMKII]

i would like to point out that even if a reputable shop rebuilt anything on the car and it has a MLS head gasket and ARPS that in all the books, the specs for the torque for the head bolts are only 58 ftlbs. So it might be a good idea and maybe go in and re-torque them to about 80-90.

You don't re-torque arp head BOLTS to 80-90 ft lbs unless you'd like problems. If they received ARP bolts then a torque spec with ultra torque lube should of come with it.

 

[spoolme]

and why dont you retorque arp bolts?? just curious.... people retorque Stock head bolts. me personally i use studs.
everyone knows that they messed up the torque specs for the 7m and put them at 58 and they are suppose to be 78.

 

[IndigoMKII]

I was saying if you re-torque them, don't re-torque arp head 'bolts' that high. You'll cause more problems.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

I originally called ARP and they said torque my head bolts (not studs) to 90ft lbs with ARP lube and 120 with gear oil. Same with the studs

I have never done a re torque with plenty of ARP head studs and never had one problem on tons of various types of engines I've built.

 

[IndigoMKII]

I originally called ARP and they said torque my head bolts (not studs) to 90ft lbs with ARP lube and 120 with gear oil. Same with the studs

I have never done a re torque with plenty of ARP head studs and never had one problem on tons of various types of engines I've built.

Really? The ARP head bolt kit that my friend got said 75 ft lbs final torque with ARP ultra lube.

 

[JStoked]

My arp bolts are torqued to 90 lbs and I have had no problems at all. And to the op we all welcome you to the forum and I hope you can get all the help you need.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

As long as the bolt is still in its "plastic range" your fine. If you have a stretch gauge you can measure it, I'm guessing 98% of people here don't though.

 

[mecevans]

My studs were 82 ft/ib with ARP lube. I retorqued them on the engine stand after a few days. Dunno if it matters.

 

[Nick M]

Oh god what's orions belt I dare ask? >.< lol ?

O'rion is a constellation of a hunter. I think he is a hunter. Astronomy is one of the many tools of the devil. He has a belt. It looks like it is wrapped tight. However, it isn't. The stars are moving rapidly apart. It just looks like it is still. Pardon me for cribbing from a source like Wiki.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orion_(constellation)