First oil change after rebuild- health of engine ? [Pics]

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aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
Ok so I recent got some help from a friend and had a chance to check everything I could out. I checked the 3000 pipe and not much oil. I pulled of the intercooler piping and started the car ,no oil in the inter-cooler piping and car still billowing white smoke. When i take the breather hose of the turbo white smoke billows from it

checked my leads going to the spark plugs - they are messed with oil! could this be causing white smoke once engine is warm?

white smoke only happens when engine is warm and only started happening after my oil change.could it be i overfilled which damaged my valve cover gaskets?
 

TheMaxx

New Member
Jan 8, 2012
77
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orlando
Damaged valve cover gaskets would leak oil on the sides (i.e. into the spark plug valley, onto your fuel rail and exhaust). My car is above the full line on dipstick motor has 190k+ miles on it, while it is a little leaky here and there it leaves no oil on the ground when parked, and my valve cover gaskets are certainly not damaged. White smoke is usually associated with steam meaning coolant and water so you are getting water into your combustion somewhere. I would have started with pulling the plugs first and checking the cylinders with a flashlight and the plugs for being washed out. Someone else said turbo seals, I'm assuming this means water cooled turbo's however if you don't have a water cooled turbo that would leave the only option left being BHG. :icon_bigg

Unless you have somehow acquired large amounts of water into your gas? It's not impossible I guess but it would run terribly.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/bhg_faq.aspx that should probably help alleviate your search I suggest you favorite the homepage to that site
 
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SRZMK3

New Member
TheMaxx;1798925 said:
Damaged valve cover gaskets would leak oil on the sides (i.e. into the spark plug valley, onto your fuel rail and exhaust). My car is above the full line on dipstick motor has 190k+ miles on it, while it is a little leaky here and there it leaves no oil on the ground when parked, and my valve cover gaskets are certainly not damaged. White smoke is usually associated with steam meaning coolant and water so you are getting water into your combustion somewhere. I would have started with pulling the plugs first and checking the cylinders with a flashlight and the plugs for being washed out. Someone else said turbo seals, I'm assuming this means water cooled turbo's however if you don't have a water cooled turbo that would leave the only option left being BHG. :icon_bigg

Unless you have somehow acquired large amounts of water into your gas? It's not impossible I guess but it would run terribly.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/bhg_faq.aspx that should probably help alleviate your search I suggest you favorite the homepage to that site

+ over 9000

take your plugs out and check the top of your cylinders for green fluid, take off your exhaust manifold you can see which cylinder is wet with steam by which exhaust port is soaked in water, water cooled turbos can leak a seal and cause white smoke, if its only doing it while warm that means it shrivels cold and then expands and flexes warm, or your head is warped just slightly and when it warms up the head gasket leaks. many different ways for white smoke to happen but all in all,,

coolant/water smokes steam white
 

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
Hey guys

So im really worried, I think my fresh rebuild might be over after just 1400km..

Anyway I get white smoke , im definitely not burning coolant , the smoke smells like diesel , im quite sure im burning oil. no i havnt blown my headgasket.

- the white smoke only occurs when the car has warmed up , never on start up

- the white smoke will happen mostly and ALOT on idle , but not that much when there is load on the engine, will puff out white smoke when I slow down and put it into first gear

- the white smoke only starting happening AFTER my first oil change after the rebuild, it started immediately after I changed the ooil. Oil 10w-30 was used to run in and I filled 10w-40 Castrol Magnatec. Ive since done another oil change just incase I overfilled ,im now using fully synthetic 5w-40

- did a compression test today , wet and dry (as Im scared it might be my piston rings)



Dry 140 140 140 150 140 150

Wet 170 160 150 180 150 160

So... theres a 30psi variance between wet and dry in cylinders 1 & 4....

After my rebuild which included forged pistons and 288/288 cams I had to stick with my stock ecu as my autobox was/is playing up and im unable to tune any standalone because of this. This lead to me running very rich - ive heard that running very rich can wash the bores not allwoing the piston rings to bed in properly.

The way I see it there are 3 possibilities

a) overfilled oil , taking a while to burn of as a little oil = alot of white smoke. already traveled over 200km since possible overfill so dont know if this is possible that oil is still burning

b) turbo seal is gone , i have a stock 25 year old ct26 that might have just let go , but only after my oil change...to much of a coincidence.

c) dropped a piston ring - leading to white smoke ....this seems to be the most plausible ..

Here are some pics that was taken while I was doing the comp test and replacing my valve cover gasket(as it seemed to be leaking onto my exhaust manifold) -

p1801281_1.jpg


p1801281_2.jpg


p1801281_3.jpg


p1801281_4.jpg


p1801281_5.jpg


p1801281_6.jpg


p1801281_7.jpg



Notice anything out of the ordinary? Ideas , suggestions?

any help is much appreciated
 
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aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
My plans as it stands are

- do another proper compression test this weekend , make sure pedal is at WOT , make sure im putting the same amount of oil in each cylinder for wet test. Test each cylinder 3 times to get an average psi reading

-do an oil change and drop my 5w-40 fully synthetic and change to 20w-50 full mineral. Thinking the thicker viscosity might help to bed in parts that havnt already bed in...in saying that ive done 1500km already so if it hasnt already bed in ,doubt it ever will. still , couldnt hurt. i know my synthetic isnt doing me any favours if lack of bedding in is the problem

-anything else I should get done while im doing my compression and oil test

- remove turbo and check turbo oil seal , downpipe etc for oil and oil residue

- remove ISCV and clean all hoses connected to it

- TRY and get a leakdown test done somewhere.

-Also someone stated that burning oil is bluish,white smoke + burning oil smell indicates oil "vapourising" in the hot exhaust of the turbo (not combusted in cylinder), so since its only doing it when warm I should look for a stuffed turbo seal. Is this correct thinking??

-What else besides piston rings smoke only when warm and on idle but never on startup and on load?
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
4,455
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Queens, NY
It doesn't smoke on load when warm? Maybe a stuffed turbo "seal" could cause this. Turbos don't have seals, I once did and Ian corrected me, there are more like rings. There is a write up in the turbo section.

What's the condition of the turbo?
 

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
IBoughtASupra;1801548 said:
It doesn't smoke on load when warm? Maybe a stuffed turbo "seal" could cause this. Turbos don't have seals, I once did and Ian corrected me, there are more like rings. There is a write up in the turbo section.

What's the condition of the turbo?

good question , il only be able to answer it this weekend when I pull of my turbo. Turbo's are such a b*tch to remove on 7m's....

No...it doesnt smoke on load when warm , only at idle , and as Im slowing down and put it into first gear.

Doesnt smoke at all when cold or at startup.

Il have a look in the turbo section , cheers!
 

crisp

existentialincrementalist
May 25, 2007
1,785
2
38
Ohio
Sounds like REAR "seal" (ring) on turbo COULD be it. If ONLY/MAINLY on hard DECEL after being on load... and then continuing after slow-down... that COULD be a sign your turbo is "shot". If not a full removal, check for axial play from the front after removing intake side. This can be a pretty quick way to FIND excess play and make a pretty good first assessment of the turbo's condition.


G/L!


-crisp
 

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
crisp;1801572 said:
Sounds like REAR "seal" (ring) on turbo COULD be it. If ONLY/MAINLY on hard DECEL after being on load... and then continuing after slow-down... that COULD be a sign your turbo is "shot". If not a full removal, check for axial play from the front after removing intake side. This can be a pretty quick way to FIND excess play and make a pretty good first assessment of the turbo's condition.


G/L!


-crisp

thanks for the advice,. I will be fully removing it to see exactly whats going on. However the only thing that doesnt sit well with me with it being a blown turbo is that the white smoe only happened after oil change. Could it be that changing from a 10w-30 oil to a 10w040 oil made my possible turbo seal problem more apparent?

ps: turbo is 25 years old so its a definite possibility.... I just think its to much of a coincidence the turbo let go the exact same hour I did my oil change....
 

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
So this morning I decided to fill more oil as my car has been burning oil recently(discussed in another thread)

SO I warmed the engine up , filled oil.

Drove along for about 20min , moderate driving , my temp gauge starts going up

I pull over and there's coolant dripping onto the ground with a hissing sound coming from the cylinders furthest away from the cam gears(towards the back of the engine)

Immediately I thought BLOWN HEAD GASKET

So I let it cool down, popped the radiator cap off and stream of coolant shot out(obviously I didn't let it cool down enough)

Refilled coolant , started engine. Engine temp normal. Drove the car around for 20min , hit boost quite hard...still no temp raise , popped the hood , all seems fine.

Looked at the coolant on the ground , just coolant , not coolant + oil. Checked radiator cap , just coolant , no coolant + oil.

HAD TO use my car to get to work , so I drove to work , 40min in stop start traffic. Engine temp normal , no more coolant leaking , engine seems fine....WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?

I know the only way to properly test for BHG is a compression test which I will be doing this weekend. Until then , any thoughts?

Could there have been air trapped in the cooling system somehow that was let out when I opened the radiator cap
Could the oil I filled this morning somehow caused this to happen...

At work and at a loss right now.... and I have to drive another 20km back home.....
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
1,158
10
38
rochester
adding oil had nothing to do with the coolant. you could have had an air pocket in the cooling system, but that wouldn't explain the hissing sound.
 

S.A. supra

New Member
Feb 15, 2009
2,405
0
0
Buda, Texas
Bhg leaking from the water jacket, is my guess. That's what happen to mine. Just because they didn't mix doesn't mean its not a Bhg.
 

Backlash2032

New Member
Sep 20, 2010
1,823
2
0
Nebraska
Its probably the 90* hose at the back of the head, or the heater hose. I wouldn't jump immediately to BHG just because its a 7M..
 
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