Emilio's NewRedSupra
- Thread starter emiliorescigno
- Start date
Brief update:
Since it's winter and not much has been happening, I did finally get around to doing my Targa seals.
Since it's winter and not much has been happening, I did finally get around to doing my Targa seals.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
[emoji106]🏻[emoji106]🏻. It's the little things you know.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a few other things in store, but with a high of 0 degrees today, even the heated garage is chilly. I'll definitely get more done this winter before driving season though. 
Well, I'm going to keep rambling since I'm a little bored at work right now. Let's take inventory on what the car needs (as well as some parts I have sitting around, ready to install)
- Rear Sway Bar: Right now, the rear sway bar is sort of a mess on the car. At some point, the mounting tab for the sway bar on the rear toe link broke off, and the sway bar was rendered useless. The tab was sloppily welded back on, and now there's a driveshaft-shaped chunk missing from the bar. I really need to replace the toe link, the endlinks, and the bar itself. None of that is particularly hard, just more money to spend.
- Bad IC Piping: The IC piping on the car really needs to be re-done. Coldside has a crack in it, and the rubber parts are rock hard. Finding OEM 1JZ pipes that are in good shape is tough, so we'll see where this goes. On the hotside, there's some aftermarket aluminum pipes that fit OK, but are pushing against a coolant line. I'd love to clean them up a bit and sure up the IC situation.
- Oil-Burning Turbo: The turbo burns oil, straightforward and simple. I'm not sure what my approach will be, maybe a Driftmotion rebuild.
- Airbag Light: The airbag light is on, and it bugs me. There's no diagnostic connector anymore, so I need to re-trace the pins and figure it out. What a pain.
- A/C Idle Up: Right now, the AC works great, but the Idle-up/Idle-down seems to be backwards. Using the A/C in stop and go traffic can cause the car to stall. I'll need to hunt this down too, but I'm not entirely sure where to start.
- Driveshaft: This is more minor, but I'm pretty confident my driveshaft is out of phase, as well as the carrier bearing being toast. I'm thinking of just getting an aluminum 1-piece, and calling it a day. Not hard, more money.
- Downpipe: The downpipe works fine, but it's sort of ugly. I'd love to get it re-done, and include a cutout in it as well for fun. Debating if I want to get an electronic cutout or just one that has a bolt-on cap.
- Tires: The tires are getting a bit old, and the rears are down to the wear bars. Time for some new rubber!
- Steering rack bushings: On a whim, I bought some poly steering rack bushings. I should install those and see how the handling feels after that.
- Oil Leak: There seems to be a small-ish oil leak at the front of the engine. Things look a little damp around the VVTi solenoid, so maybe it's that. It could also be a front main seal, or cam seals. Again, more annoying stuff to deal with.
- Rear Sway Bar: Right now, the rear sway bar is sort of a mess on the car. At some point, the mounting tab for the sway bar on the rear toe link broke off, and the sway bar was rendered useless. The tab was sloppily welded back on, and now there's a driveshaft-shaped chunk missing from the bar. I really need to replace the toe link, the endlinks, and the bar itself. None of that is particularly hard, just more money to spend.
- Bad IC Piping: The IC piping on the car really needs to be re-done. Coldside has a crack in it, and the rubber parts are rock hard. Finding OEM 1JZ pipes that are in good shape is tough, so we'll see where this goes. On the hotside, there's some aftermarket aluminum pipes that fit OK, but are pushing against a coolant line. I'd love to clean them up a bit and sure up the IC situation.
- Oil-Burning Turbo: The turbo burns oil, straightforward and simple. I'm not sure what my approach will be, maybe a Driftmotion rebuild.
- Airbag Light: The airbag light is on, and it bugs me. There's no diagnostic connector anymore, so I need to re-trace the pins and figure it out. What a pain.
- A/C Idle Up: Right now, the AC works great, but the Idle-up/Idle-down seems to be backwards. Using the A/C in stop and go traffic can cause the car to stall. I'll need to hunt this down too, but I'm not entirely sure where to start.
- Driveshaft: This is more minor, but I'm pretty confident my driveshaft is out of phase, as well as the carrier bearing being toast. I'm thinking of just getting an aluminum 1-piece, and calling it a day. Not hard, more money.
- Downpipe: The downpipe works fine, but it's sort of ugly. I'd love to get it re-done, and include a cutout in it as well for fun. Debating if I want to get an electronic cutout or just one that has a bolt-on cap.
- Tires: The tires are getting a bit old, and the rears are down to the wear bars. Time for some new rubber!
- Steering rack bushings: On a whim, I bought some poly steering rack bushings. I should install those and see how the handling feels after that.
- Oil Leak: There seems to be a small-ish oil leak at the front of the engine. Things look a little damp around the VVTi solenoid, so maybe it's that. It could also be a front main seal, or cam seals. Again, more annoying stuff to deal with.
Well, I'm always happy to keep talking to myself, so let's have at it!
I just attempted to start handling my various troubles. I placed an order with Toyota for the rear toe link, and reached out to Amayama in an attempt to get some new OEM 1JZ intercooler pipes.
The next day, both outfits contacted me to let me know that none of the parts I wanted were available. Drat.
Jake (scubajtw) also stopped by the other day, and we're pretty sure my VVTi oil leak is just the o-ring. We also noticed an annoying crack in the oil cap. Time to get a new one! (Maybe a really neat aftermarket one, ideas?)
So hopefully I'll start collecting some parts for all these troubles. Once I can actually find some to order! I'm still not sure how I'm going to approach IC piping, so I'm all open for ideas.
What I'd give for a truly bolt-on setup...
I just attempted to start handling my various troubles. I placed an order with Toyota for the rear toe link, and reached out to Amayama in an attempt to get some new OEM 1JZ intercooler pipes.
The next day, both outfits contacted me to let me know that none of the parts I wanted were available. Drat.
Jake (scubajtw) also stopped by the other day, and we're pretty sure my VVTi oil leak is just the o-ring. We also noticed an annoying crack in the oil cap. Time to get a new one! (Maybe a really neat aftermarket one, ideas?)
So hopefully I'll start collecting some parts for all these troubles. Once I can actually find some to order! I'm still not sure how I'm going to approach IC piping, so I'm all open for ideas.
What I'd give for a truly bolt-on setup...
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Is the intake cam gear leaking? My SC300 had that. I just had the whole thing replaced.
A steel one piece driveshaft will much cheaper and weighs considerably less than stock.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A steel one piece driveshaft will much cheaper and weighs considerably less than stock.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
emiliorescigno;206 said:
I make billet alloy oil caps to suit the jz engines with a variety of different engravings... Mk3 Supra logo, mk4 Supra logo, teq logo, "2jz no shit!" Or " 1jz"
Can also do custom text or basic graphics if you ask nicely
andrew_mx83;2069308 said:I make billet alloy oil caps to suit the jz engines with a variety of different engravings... Mk3 Supra logo, mk4 Supra logo, teq logo, "2jz no shit!" Or " 1jz"
Can also do custom text or basic graphics if you ask nicely
Rats! I didn't read this until I had ordered by TRD Oil cap. Bummer.
Ordered a couple things: TRD Oil Cap, VVTi Solenoid O-Ring, Sway Bar endlinks.
I gotta order more stuffs.
Jolly good. CXRacing makes an intercooler kit for the 1JZ VVTi now. I'm not a fan of China parts, but if the glove fits...
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...VV-STOCK-SUPRA3-IC0022-AI&Category_Code=#term
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...VV-STOCK-SUPRA3-IC0022-AI&Category_Code=#term
Well, I'm happy to keep talking to myself.
Let's review what the status on everything is:
- Rear Sway Bar: I got new endlinks, and I'll be sticking with the stock bar I have in the garage for now. The AutoX guys all recommended a stock or even removing the rear bar, so I'm not going to spend any money until I go to a test and tune and try out what I have.
- Bad IC Piping: I'm considering the CXRacing kit, or paying someone to make something custom. This is my biggest question mark still.
- Oil-Burning Turbo: I pulled this off, and gave it to Steve for cleaning and inspection, we'll see what is found. Hey Steve, any word?
- Oil Leak: The VVTi solenoid o-ring has arrived, I'll need to pop it on.
- Driveshaft: I ordered a Shaftmasters 3" AL driveshaft, that should serve me well. I chickened out and didn't buy the $1,100 Titan CF driveshaft. Too much money.
- Tires: I'm going to wait until spring gets closer to order these, but they're going to be needed, especially in the rear.
- Steering rack bushings: These need to be installed, I should do that soon.
- Airbag Light: It's on, this is low on my priority list.
- A/C Idle Up: This is still annoying, but not SUPER important. Also a little low on my priority list.
Let's review what the status on everything is:
- Rear Sway Bar: I got new endlinks, and I'll be sticking with the stock bar I have in the garage for now. The AutoX guys all recommended a stock or even removing the rear bar, so I'm not going to spend any money until I go to a test and tune and try out what I have.
- Bad IC Piping: I'm considering the CXRacing kit, or paying someone to make something custom. This is my biggest question mark still.
- Oil-Burning Turbo: I pulled this off, and gave it to Steve for cleaning and inspection, we'll see what is found. Hey Steve, any word?
- Oil Leak: The VVTi solenoid o-ring has arrived, I'll need to pop it on.
- Driveshaft: I ordered a Shaftmasters 3" AL driveshaft, that should serve me well. I chickened out and didn't buy the $1,100 Titan CF driveshaft. Too much money.
- Tires: I'm going to wait until spring gets closer to order these, but they're going to be needed, especially in the rear.
- Steering rack bushings: These need to be installed, I should do that soon.
- Airbag Light: It's on, this is low on my priority list.
- A/C Idle Up: This is still annoying, but not SUPER important. Also a little low on my priority list.
Im quietly watching...........
I have never heard of completely removing the rear bar........The consensus I have always seen is the best handling setup is to mirror your spring rates. If your running stiff springs then soft bars to offset. If running soft springs stiff sways to match.
My intentions are to go with the latter to keep the touring vibe but also make it a capable car to take to the track for a weekend a few times a year.
I have never heard of completely removing the rear bar........The consensus I have always seen is the best handling setup is to mirror your spring rates. If your running stiff springs then soft bars to offset. If running soft springs stiff sways to match.
My intentions are to go with the latter to keep the touring vibe but also make it a capable car to take to the track for a weekend a few times a year.
GC89;2069882 said:
That's essentially what the AutoXers were saying.
The whole idea is that you want to run as little rear bar *as you can get away with* - having a huge rear bar means you're lifting the inside rear tire when cornering, leading to the inability to put power down on corner exit.
Of course, if you have very little rear bar, that will equate to lots of body roll, and a car that understeers too much. The suggestion was essentially: start with no bar, and if it's a floppy/understeering pig, keep adding more rear bar until the balance is acceptable.
If you can deal with having a higher spring rate instead of depending on a rear bar for roll stiffness, that's the preferred mthod. You won't be picking up the inside tire as much, while simultaneously fighting body roll.
Jumping straight to a huge bar in the rear will eliminate understeer, but will also make putting power down on corner exit difficult.
So who knows exactly what I'll do. I want to get new rear springs while I'm at it. They're at max low at the moment, and it's still higher than my Eibachs were in the rear. At maximum height, I'm pretty sure I could fit a decently large mud tire right now.
Did more stuff:
- Installed stock rear sway bar and new whiteline endlinks.
- Installed new Shaftmasters driveshaft.
- Replaced spark plugs.
- Installed new TRD Oil Cap
- Installed VVTi solenoid o-ring
What's left (for now):
- Get new toe link for right rear of the car.
- Figure out new intercooler/piping.
- Evaluate turbo seal's condition.
- Order new tires.
- Install steering rack bushings.
- A/C Idle Up: This is still annoying, but not SUPER important. Also a little low on my priority list.
- Airbag Light: It's on, this is low on my priority list.
- Installed stock rear sway bar and new whiteline endlinks.
- Installed new Shaftmasters driveshaft.
- Replaced spark plugs.
- Installed new TRD Oil Cap
- Installed VVTi solenoid o-ring
What's left (for now):
- Get new toe link for right rear of the car.
- Figure out new intercooler/piping.
- Evaluate turbo seal's condition.
- Order new tires.
- Install steering rack bushings.
- A/C Idle Up: This is still annoying, but not SUPER important. Also a little low on my priority list.
- Airbag Light: It's on, this is low on my priority list.
Interested to see your feedback on the your sway/spring rate journey. Im on stock springs/shocks right now but am planning on ordering a tanabe rear bar this spring to try first since the rear should affect overall roll more. Then maybe next winter I want to build a set of coilovers similar to yours but I am leaning towards bilstein HD's custom valved for my spring rates. Tanabe is the stiffest rear bar out there and I'm still planning on sticking with some relatively soft spring rates compared to what I see on some setups.
I have an evo that rides stiff and will go around a track quicker with much less work than the Sup so I really want to keep it for a mainly street purposed car that I don't mind driving to SIV or anywhere else and back.
I have an evo that rides stiff and will go around a track quicker with much less work than the Sup so I really want to keep it for a mainly street purposed car that I don't mind driving to SIV or anywhere else and back.
Crossing things off my list!
Installed the poly steering rack bushings.
Got the turbo back from Steve after he worked some magic on it...things were pretty messy in there!
Installed the poly steering rack bushings.
Got the turbo back from Steve after he worked some magic on it...things were pretty messy in there!