Bleeding the clutch, weird issue.

Quin

Quin

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Dec 5, 2006
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Finally got my car all back together, put the motor back in yesterday and went to bleed the clutch and ran into some problems. First, there were no changes at all, then my buddy decided to pull the whole bleeder valve off of the slave only to find and the threads were all F'd and the nipple that should be smooth had a serious groove in it (thanks PO). Well, replaced that slave cylinder with a new one and the problem didn't go away. I was looking in the TSRM and I saw that a small o ring sits between the reservoir and the master, and that's what my buddy thinks the problem is. I have NFI. You can't see any movement in the reservoir when bleeding, but plenty of fluid and air come out the bottom of the car. We couldn't find any leaks... Thoughts?
 
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HommerSimpson

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Dec 31, 2007
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make sure you have a little freeplay in the clutch peddle.. and that it is letting the master cly come all the way back up ...( peddle up ) if there is no freeplay then the master cly cant suck new fluid back into the piston area..


and if pumping then cracking bleeader.. the peddle needs to come all the way up on each pump... as stated to suck new fluid back in piston area...


you try open bleader... push clutch down... close.... let up... keep up a few seconds... then repeat
 
Quin

Quin

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adampecush;1087457 said:
you mention a problem, but don't state what it actually is...so it is tough to offer advice.
Click to expand...

Wow, lol. After going through a couple (3-5) bleeds during which the pedal will build up pressure and start to feel almost like it used to, the next bleed the pedal just shoots straight to the floor as soon as you touch it.

I've got maybe 1.5-2in of pedal from the usual resting spot before the clutch engages (disengages? Not sure which term to use here). I used to have .5-1in of travel (when the car would start to move forward from a stop normally, again not sure what term to use here) and after that it was fully (engaged? disengaged?) and you were done easing forward. Hope that makes enough sense to get some help :(

Btw Greg that's what we were doing, I didn't know there was any other way to do it? lol
 
Quin

Quin

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Yes, fluid comes out with each pump. I bought a master cylinder rebuild kit that comes with 47232A, 31454 and a few other bits (http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...AR&MfrPartNumber=0717626&PartType=235&PTSet=A) thinking that 47232A is the problem piece. It's listed as non-reusable and I'm fairly sure if it's ever been apart it's been reused, based on the rest of the car. If this doesn't take care of it I'll most likely buy a complete new master from Toyota, but I wanted to see if anyone on here had any ideas before I started throwing parts at the problem. Not a bad idea to replace this stuff anyway, right? 20 years old, probably original.
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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I take it that the clutch pedal snaps right to the floor and stays? I personally wouldn't waist time rebuilding a master cylinder...I just replace the whole unit...and did you make sure the clutch fork is hooked up correctly?...are you looking in the inspection area on the trans to see if the slave us actually moveing?....did you replace the clutch hose?...grab the clutch pedal with your hand and give it like 10 rapid pumps and see if it gets some pressure.
 
Quin

Quin

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Correct, as I said I may just do it but I wanted to see if anyone had any random special things they did that worked well for them before I did it, already replaced slave with new one, pretty sure the clutch fork is hooked up correctly, slave is moving, replaced the clutch hose, tried that last part but that was before we replaced the slave, forgot to do it again after we replaced it.

Bit more info, even when it starts building up pressure it still shoots straight to 3-4 inches from the floor and then stops. If you press it the rest of the way down, it will return to that position under it's own power then must be pulled the rest of the way back up.
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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I'm wondering if the piston in the slave is being pushed too far and almost out of the cylinder itself letting air back in? Try adjusting the master so the pedal doesn't move as much...this happens to me when working on my w58 but it's much easier to deal with the w slave....I just adjusted the pedal a bit and it stopes pushing the piston out.....
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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don't know if you tried this....fill the master back to the very top, pull clutch pedal back to the top of it's stroke, the open the bleeder on the slave and let wait till fluid comes pouring out...have some keep filling the master as it gets low then after about the 3rd refill close the bleeder then try to push the clutch pedal...sometimes it can be a real bitch if there is air in the line so gravity bleeding can make quick work if it.
 
Quin

Quin

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Didn't try that, will have to give it a go Monday as my buddy is out of town all weekend and isn't comfortable with me working on it by myself (it's on his property).
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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yeah I never get under my car if I'm alone...shit happens!

A2 has good prices on aisin oem toyota master cylinders...I bought one from him...like doing business with him for some reason...
 
Quin

Quin

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Word on the street is local Napa sells Aisin units for around 28 bucks a pop, and as I need this more as an ASAP thing, I'd probably go that route. No offense to Chris or A2
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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Quin;1087808 said:
Word on the street is local Napa sells Aisin units for around 28 bucks a pop, and as I need this more as an ASAP thing, I'd probably go that route. No offense to Chris or A2
Click to expand...

maybe I should check my napa....
 
Quin

Quin

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I thought he meant lift pedal open bleeder and just refill the rez without pumping it or anything while it happens.
 
gaboonviper85

gaboonviper85

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yes...bring the pedal back up and then open the bleeder and let it drain till you have to refill the master atlest 3 times....



Now just to clear things up...before when you were bleeding it did you make sure to close the bleeder before your helper released the clutch pedal?...I doubt your bleeding wrong cause that is basic stuff..but just makeing sure.


Give the gravity bleeding a shot though as it's fool proof.
 
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IJ.

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I come from a land down under
3 pumps of the pedal hold it on the floor while your helper cracks the bleeder.

KEEP the pedal on the floor tighten the bleeder and repeat....

It's not rocket science guys really...:nono:

If you don't have a helper it can be done single handed using a MityVac pump and a 1 man bleed kit. (I do mine this way it gives good results)
 
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