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Will definitely see about testing this. I am planning on rebuilding the engine as it has 162000 miles on it, but if the headgasket is going then I will get my truck running again and park the car until I can.

I will most likely change the thermostat, but why I feel it is not the issue is that it would fail one way or the other causing that specific issue on every drive. My car has no issues warming up and does not appear to have a true or consistent overheating issue, as it returns to normal temp on...

Have not replaced it yet, I would think a stuck thermostat would cause either a direct overheat if closed or a delayed warmup if open, thus I ruled it out as neither of these is the issue. Is there another way a thermostat could affect the cooling system?

Hey everybody, so I am having a few most likely related issues with the cooling system on my car. First off is a regular exchange of coolant between my overflow and my radiator. One drive the radiator will be full and the overflow empty, the next and the radiator will be low and the overflow...

So I grounded te1 and I still got nothing. Check engine light is on when the key is in the on position, but no flashy flashy.�� any other ideas?

Thanks hopefully I'll have time tommorow to check out the diagnostic port, and start cracking down on the other issues

Sorry was on my phone and missed the 1 ha ha, will try that though. How would I go about testing the cold start injector?

Hey guys, just recently found myself in the possession of a 1987 turbo with 162000 miles, decent condition and runs well for the most part, just a couple little issues. First off, the te1 to e circuit doesn't seem to work so I can't check my codes, however the check engine light still turns on...

That is exactly what the supra intake solves. it changes the length of the intake runners with higher rpms giving you a flatter power curve up past clear up to the redline.

Yes, about 10-15 hp is lost and the power curve narrows with the cressida style intake.

If you use the cressida intake you loos the acis intake feature from the supra. It's actually pretty effective at boosting power across the rpm range. As far as I know the blocks and heads are the same, but its best to swap all the electronics and accessories from the supra 7mge to make it's ecu...

pretty sure stock idle oil pressure is 4-5 psi. its a low pressure high volume system.

supra's as a general rule tend to run rich in stock form. my 86.5 pops and rumbles a bit on deceleration as well, hell it sometimes pops at idle. nothing to worry about imo. though exhaust leaks are typically not good.

stock na supra with a 4.3 rear runs out of gear at 139 mph. ( aka redline in fifth gear at that speed) In the lighter 86.5 trim, and when new mind you, it would pull a 7 second 0-60 and a 15.4 second quarter mile. later na models were heavier and slightly slower, especially targa tops. Add 20...

Block and head are the same. the oil pan, intake, and various sensors can simply be swapped between engines.

Well After a long week of searching, I discovered that the PO broke a clip on one of the engine harness plugs at the ecu and it had worked its way loose. -_- no idea why the broken tps wasn't affecting anything, but at least now it's fixed too

Check your coolant levels, may have popped the HG

Looks like I have an intermittent firing signal to the no. 2 injector. Any advice on how to proceed?

UPDATE: Cylinder 2 is only firing intermittently. The ignition system has been ruled out as the culprit leaving the injector or compression to be the issue. Any advice would be awesome thanks.

So bad news, TPS replaced and adjusted as per FSM and the problem still exists. To recap, the car experiences occasional bouts of sputtering and loss of power lasting anywhere from a split second to several minutes. When it's not sputtering, the idle is high at around 1100-1300 rpm. the idle is...