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yep, i had a bent intake valve (1jz head) and went to my friend arnout from supras.nl, he has loads of engines and we looked to see if we could use one from a 2jz(gte) I had both intake and exhaust valves to compare and the 1jz exhaust valves are about 2mm bigger in diameter than the 2jz ones...

yes, putting in 370 to 680 in the parameter settings and keeping all maps to zero should make it run like stock. Then first use the 'airflow adjustment map' to get the desired a/f's, in this map you can also pull out fuel if needed. Use the 'additional injection map' to compensate for boost...

I made 322whp@14psi on a 1jz with stock twins........ :biglaugh: (Rob, now watch the pissing contest start, LOL!)

2jz exhaust valves are a downgrade; they're smaller than the 1jz ones ;) only the intake 2jz's are bigger

copy from sf: The 2jz map sensor actually makes it run less rich; the ecu thinks there is less air coming in than really is coming in, so that's not it. Putting in a 1jz map sensor would make it run more rich. What boost levels were you able to get to? And more important, are you also not...

the ecu doesn't know there are bigger injectors, so it still keeps using the same opening times which results in more fuel being injected by the larger injectors with the same amount of air mass which results in a richer mixture i can tell from personal experience there IS a scale difference...

I guess he broke his glasses then? :biglaugh:

I just noticed I forgot to explain why I said "dumping fuel into your engine and dilluting your oil. When the engine is idling, there is very little load on the piston rings, they're just rattling along up and down and the seal is at it's worst. This in combination with the cold start...

No, don't cap it off, the fuel tank 'breathes' through that. I believe it also breathes through the filler cap, but I'm not 100% of that. But it DOES breath through that line. You can run that line downwards. I have it cut at the point where it enters the engine bay, which is where the fuel...

IAT sensor is crucial on cars with MAP, because with those two sensors the air mass is calculated ;)

A friend of mine did this, he used two front turbo's of a jdm 2jz to work around the wastegate problem. They are also 3 bolt flanges and fit with little alteration. However you do need a custom Y-pipe and the other downside is the ceramic impellors of the turbo's, they don't like high boost...

as said on sf as well: what ecu are you using? stock or blitz/mines/...? Have you tried using the injector change setting? what are the symptoms? btw, an eman map based on a stock ecu is quite different then one based on a blitz ecu, take that into consideration when using someone...

sounds like it's drowning on fuel > O2 sensor, intake air temp sensor, something like that could be fubar which makes the ecu enrich the mixture. as for the other stuff; after a cold start, only wait for the oil pressure to rise, then engage the clutch and drive off and stay below...

Different name, same thing ;)

Checked for any fuel leaks yet? Fuel evaporates quickly, so it could be there's no puddles. When you've just parked after a drive, pop the hood and smell for fuel, could be a coupling isn't tightened properly or something. Also check if all wheels spin freely and have the wheel alignment...

+1 Your thermostat is shot, doesn't open (enough) anymore.

Not addressed to anybody specific, but try thinking in air mass flow in stead of boost. Boost does not tell all when making power or spooling up. Then when thinking in air mass flow compare one big turbo and two smaller ones which together make the same power as the big single. Then take into...

Glad to hear you're one of the people here that can discuss normally and don't go yelling if someone doesn't agree with them. I must admit I added the last sentence afterwards because I so hate the mindless yelling and calling names, so to avoid that I added that last sentence. But to get...

When you're aiming for the same powergoal, yes, a single IS more efficient. Read the book and you'll agree with me and others on this board who understand this concept. Not trying to put you down or something, it's just a matter of understanding it ;)

Try to pick up a copy of this book: 'Sport Compact Turbo's & Blowers' by Joe Pettitt ISBN 1-884089-88-7 here's a link: http://www.allbookstores.com/book/9781884089886/Joe_Pettitt/Sport_Compact_Turbos_and_Blowers.html He can explain it a lot better than me ;) There's a LOT of theory in there...