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yes, after long and thorough reading i decided to go for the motoman way, i have a mechanical engineering education and this to me made good sense i also did the head; lapped the valves and replaced one and had it leak tested which turned out with very good seal but i must say i suspect the...

after my rebuild of my 1.5jz end of last year and running it in the 'motoman' way i've put a few thousand miles on it by now so this weekend i decided to check the compression: psi: 1 189 2 189 3 189 4 189 5 184 6 189 bar: 1 13 2 13 3 13 4 13 5 12.7 6 13 i'm quite happy :)

so you have the poppet type WG (external), but have it hooked up like the flap type WG (internal)? so i could use the avcr internal set-up for my situation as well?

nope, that's open, like in example two

thx for the info but what would cause the boost to spike when it's hooked up like the second example?

i'm running a sp67 with a 50mm WG on a 1.5jz i have it hooked up like the second example, that's not the problem the problems i have is that i get spikes in 4th and 5th which i can't tune out and i can't get a steady boost, i've tried playing with all settings like feedback speed and start duty...

only reason to cross the German border is to be legal, there's plenty of places you can go flat-out where we live ;) the thing to do is to scout the route well up and down before you're gonna go :)

+1 on my 1.5jz with a rev limit of 7200, don't know what that would be in real speed gonna check that with a gps this year :)

i don't follow..., both are normally closed untill opened at a certain pressure

can you elaborate? as far as i know both work with spring loaded actuators, only difference i can see is an external WG is bigger and needs more pressure to operate

Can anyone tell me why you have to hook-up the avcr solenoid differently with an external wastegate than an internal wastegate? internal: external: The big difference is that with the internal set-up the solenoid directly controls the wastegate and with the external set-up it acts as a...

a nice tip if you need to drop the resistor pack; cut the wires of the resistor pack between the pack and it's plug, solder all the wires together inside the plug and press the rubber thinghy back on you get two advantages: you can unplug the injectors when needed without resetting the ecu...

not really EFI fuse out = spark but no fuel injection igniter plug out = no spark but still injecting fuel You don't want the last one (chance of bore wash) and really not with the spark plugs out; nice puffs of fuel vapour ;) When you want to turn over the engine but don't want to start it...

from what I've heard, the main problem to get the AEM to work with a 1jz-vvti is that the crank trigger wheel is a missing-teeth type and to get that to work with the AEM is quite a pain. the vvti however can be controlled nicely with the AEM I don't have hands on experience with the vvti...

Flintstones ftw!

mine are SARD's

suprahero; the main difference between 1jz and 1.5jz is the deck hight, the 1.5jz sits about an inch higher so, keep that in mind and think off all bits that are both attached to the head and shortblock and you'll know what to expect, like the waterneck. for instance, if you keep the stock...

+1, i got those too

Going 1.5jz would be a nice option if you've wasted your shortblock, that's the route I took some years ago. Nowadays it would be more sensible to go full 2jz if you want a 3ltr. Me and a good friend are both driving 1.5jz's for years now, tenthousends of miles put on it and never any oiling...

happy boostin' in the new year folks!