Search results

With the reading I have been doing here I am thinking GTE block for the oil squirters, GE pistons for the CR Lexus AFM and fuel injector with a supporting piggy back solution. That should create a good and durable turbo environment. Should also be doable on GE electronics.

^^ You mean there is another way of filling a car? :D Actually that is the best radiator filler ever. I dont know how we ever got along without it.

See that metal around the wire going through the firewall? Get a grommet to go between the wires and the metal. That wire vibrating against the metal will eventually chaffe through the insulation and ground against the body. Most parts stores will carry small pass through grommets in assorted sizes.

It is there. Hiding in that little nook under the heat sheild that has a sharp edge.

Good to hear the community helping each other out when needed like that. Good on akito for offering the parts. Good luck to Linkstar in getting the car back together and avoiding deer!

Good to hear everything turned out well and relativley easy.

A little white smoke at start up could be condensation. Since you are smelling the antifreeze I would suggest getting a pressure tester and looking for an external leak that way. That little bypass cap is a PITA to replace in car. I dont think I cussed it enough when I replaced mine.

I cant agree with using a silicone sealant for this seal. I would suggest a butyl tape that is used for windsheild setting. This will be water proof and will also not harden. Will be doing my targa seals this weekend and will post pics and results when complete.

If you are not having to add coolant and arent overheating, I would suggest you have a partially clogged heater core or a collapsing heater core hose. You shoould never hear coolant entering you heater on a properly filled and working cooling system.

The only time I disagree with this is when the car is filled with the rear end up. That will usually create some problems for certain cars. Although there are other certain vehicles which require a particular filling sequence, the 7M MKIII isnt one of them.

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/elect/splice.html Sometimes some pictures are worth a thousand words.

Not a Supra owner, but close enough Is that like being kind of pregnant? J/K Welcome to the site.

Status update? Did you win the fogs on ebay?

Hearing water rush into the heater core means your coolant system is low on water. The really big questions is, why is it low on water? 2 tools that are invaluable to answering this question are a combustion gas leak detector kit and a cooling system pressure tester. The combustion gas tester...

Perform the combustion gas test that is mentioned above. It taes all of 5 minutes to get a sample from the radiator and mix the test solution. Doing this test first can save you time and frustration.

BHG/cracked head/cracked block. COmbustion gases should not be present in cooling system. If that comes back clean, no gases present then look into radiator/water pump flow.

This combustion gas tester. Lets you know if you have combustion gases in your coolant.

What were the leak down % across the board? Just curious. Also have you performed the combustion gas test as jdub suggested? Another thing to look at is radiator blockage.

20A dome light fuse and J/B #3 are both common points to clock and radio. The 20A dome light circuit also supplies power to the thef deterent system. I would pay close attention to that circuit for any problems.

It sounds like you are connecting ground wires to wires that are powered. Not suggesting that you did it just a theory that I have seen proven many times. Trace all wires you are using and confirm them to have power or ground appropiatley.