Search results

My RF works loose every 2 weeks or so. I will take a turn or hit a bump just right and hear the skueak. I know when I hear it that its time to snug the bolts again. The rears never need any retorque. The RF usually takes 2-3 turns. The LF may take .5-1.5 turns.

Thats what I get for being up too late and thinking too hard. Was thinking about macpherson strut suspension.

Would have to be a fair size block to compensate for the spindles falling inwards wouldnt it? Or maybe my thinking is really flawed from never trying it.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=8194177&Description=Hatchback+Lift+Support These are working very well for me. I have an aftermarket MKIV style wing that is heavier than stock on my hatch.

Blown struts will cause very erratic tire wear. Will increase body roll and tire hop. Usually the springs are alreay worn/damaged when the strut blows.

Reading this thread makes me want to go check my targa and make sure it is tight. Even though I just checked it yesterday. Mine vibrate loose every few days so I have to tighten them down. They will usually start squeaking when it works itself loose though.

A failing radiator cap will cause water to not transfer to the radiator. Hearing the water rush into your heater core suggests you have a water leak in the system, which will also cause the overflow to not flow back to radiator.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7001006&Description=Leak+Detector+Kit+%2f+Engine+Block

The switches are fine as long as you are using the rerlay for switching. You wont draw the amps through the switches which is what will fry them. The easiest thing to do is get you a test light. Most auto parts stores have them for $5-10. Usng test light make sure you are getting power through...

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1056 Very in depth about our fan clutches and how to repair them. Worth the read just for the understanding of their workings.

Post the list your mechanic gives you. This will give us a place to guide you in. There are many options available to you and this community is more than willing to walk you through many of the steps of getting it done.

1) You fail at english. That was just really hard to read. 2) Sounds like BHG. You can perform a combustion gas test on the coolant to confirm. 3) Perform leak-down test wet and dry. This will give you a good indication of what you are about to replace. If I had to guess, I would say a...

Am going to try and put this to my own use this weekend. Thanks for the find!

Napa carries a thermal wire loom that is meant for spark plug wires that are in close provimity to exhaust headers. You would do better to wrap your exhaust and get a turbo blanket as it would lower overall underhood temps .

Damn hate to see that happen. Sounds like Akito has the plan to get the car back on the road however. Glad you are OK and I hope the car turns out the same.

With a long enough extension, you can remove the bolts on the passenger side and the rear bolt on the drivers side from inside the hood. To give you a little more room you can loosen the motor mount bolts and raise the engine about 1.5 - 2". Not needed but simple to do anyway.

Where did you buy the alt from? Also check to see if it is spinning freely.

What caused the WP pulley to stop spinning? In your pic I can see burnt belt material that tells me the pulley stopped spinning and burned the belt. The alternator pulley may not have been properly tightened and came off. This is just a theory however. I have no answer on the PS problem unless...

The starting issue, I would start with a battery test. Check all ground connections also. A loose/corroded ground wire will give these symptoms and lead to excess wear on the starter and battery. Follow cuel's advice for the rest of your list.

I have to say that is a very clean restoration you have done there. Hope mine looks half as good as yours when completed.