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That final knock of death is always disheartening.

You dont wont to shift so early as to be waiting for the power band in the next gear. Although we arent making much more power over 5200 RPM we arent losing either. We just ride the flat spot of the curve and shift so as to have engine pulling as soon as we are in gear.

The euros are looking better on that car IMO. I have seen other cars where the clears looked definitively better but this isnt one of them.

Very nice find. Wonder where it has been.

That usually sounds like the slave. My luck has always been that when one goes, the other isnt too far behind.

That should be permisible for a homicide there.

Testing with a known good item isnt a problem. I actually have some known good parts in my tool box that are strictly for testing purposes. Sometimes it is easier and faster to test that way. I was just dismayed that people would tell him to just get one from a salvage yard without testing...

To comment more on the cap. The Napa part # doesnt have a button to release the pressure. There is a half turn for pressure relief before it turns out of the filler neck. The pressure has no way of venting without turning the cap when the system is properly capped off.

Sux to hear man. How you get away with being in an apartment with a vehicle that has no dash?

Check to see if you have a Beck Arnley supplier in your area. Beck Arnley has very good fitting replacements for our cars.

This thread isnt about it being a bad idea or not. Just the availability of the parts for doing it.

I came out lucky and found a kit that was within specs using the plastigauge. For stock motor I would say it is within acceptable tolerance. If I were to make poser on this motor however I would have the block and rods sent out with the crank for a full machining to get it blueprinted as they...

I am shaking my head in disbeleif at the bad information posted in this thread by so many people. If you are going to do any electrical testing at least invest in a test light and ohm/voltmeter. Both of these items can be purchased for $10-15. These two tools will save you much time and money...

Also part # 703-2620 from Napa is the same thing.

Hard pipe in that area. The only flex lines are at the radiator. Be sure to get it checked out soon. Hot exhaust and trans fluid can make for a fire.

OEM style gasket shouldnt need any other fluid. Copper-coat was the fluid you are refering to I beleive. Just make sure your block has a clean surface on it also. After a good scraping to remove the larger peices of gasjet material, I use 150 - 200 wet/dry sandpaper around a block sander and...

Now that is a cool toy. A full system without waiting for the thermostat to open.

If the rear trans seal is leaking it can mist onto the exhaust pipe. Also the cooling line connections are right above the exhaust pipe. Very possible for trans fluid to leak onto the exhaust.

Actually the cap is the easiest of the rubber at the back of the head. The hardest is a draw between the elbow right above the cap going to the back of the head or the outlet from the heater core. I made some really good noises that night while changing those hoses.

To see how well the human hand would bleed in a rush of engine coolant?