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Save it for the education or use it to pay the loans you have.

It works at low boost levels. The GE computer wont have the fuel and timing interpolations for a turbo however. As you have already guessed elevated boost levels will just compound the problem. Better to get him a proper GTE ECM or a standalone.

Toyota or Clevite are the only brands you want to install. Dorman brand are made smaller for the DIY crowd that dont have the tools (including mentality) to install them properly. Carquest and NAPA carry Clevite brand freeze plugs. Autozone and Advance carry Dorman.

This is one of those opertions that the term gentle but firm becomes very evident once completed.

Depends on what parts and what condition they are in. No pics = no idea. Peruse this forum to get an idea what you are up against. http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=31

Have you checked the radiator to make sure it isnt partialy blocked? Also have a leak-down or combustion gas test performed. Will give you more insight into any problems than a simple compression test.

Common sense tells me not to start th car again until I had injector seals. Worst case scenario is leaking fuel and burning the car down. Best case scenario is running lean enough to melt a piston. Either way it isnt good and needs to be fixed before going further. May actually fix the problem.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036 Check the fusible link or fuse in the underhood fuse box. Is marked as fusible link box in that link. AM1 and AM2 wouldnt cause this problem.

Seriously, why would you try to run a car with known bad injector seals?

Ummm this is a forum for and about Supras.... ::moebaker::

Get the VIN # off the firewall and run it through Carfax. See what comes back before you make any other moves.

Somehow I can see Restore and coolant from BHG and the general neglect that comes with a BHG all contributing to the gumminess.

After attaching grounds, if it still doesnt start, check all connections and cltch saftey switch. Disassemble and clean all surfaces and try again. Should be good if new washers. Yes. This may also get the starter to working for you also.

Auto or manual transmission? The crush washers at banjo fittings should never be reused. Replace these before anything else. The ground wires attach to the intake manifold. Make sure you havent run these to the starter by accident.

For my problem it was the adjustment of the trans range switch. Had it set good for the start signal in park but it was out in all other ranges. Once i had it properly set it shifts into all gear and kicks down properly. For the cold shift problem, it is too warm outside to tell if I have it...

Wish I could shed more light on this issue but I havent been able to track it down myself. The cold shift issue for me diminshes when ambient temp is higher as well. Now that I have swapped the drive train over to a different shell the problem is it shifts too soon and has no down shifts. I have...

Not a true statement at all. If it were true they would all have Aisin stamped into them. Airtex and Gates are the only aftermarket pumps worth considering for replacement.

Between the long crankig time and loose terminals, that would cause the heated terminals. If they are still getting hot tightened properly, look into replacing the cables. If you are using those cheap clamp the cable in the terminal battery termnals, replace the cables.

I think many things wrong throughout the day. I will never act on them however. If the terminals are hot dont touch them again.