Search results

Once it went, I doubt there was enough velocity tp pull any peices to the intercooler. Definatley not enough to pull any through the intercooler.

On the hard start issue, check if the CSI, or any of the injectors for that matter, is leaking. If those pass check fuel pump hold pressure.

Read this post and search out Defiant 7M s build thread. It basically boils down to it is a high expense with little yeild.

6.5" door speakers. Upgraded rear speakers and a 10" sub with a decent 200-300W amp should get you a decent sound.

Not that I care but try a stair stepper..... The specific gear ratio should be a 3:90. To find out if it is LSD or not just look an the back of the pumpkin. There is a decal by the fill plug that states LSD. If it isnt there you have an open diff.

About made me spew my drink there, IJ. Check all your connections to AFPR.

The stock camber adjustment is plenty unless something is bent on the suspension.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2 That will give you an overveiw of our cooling system. There is lots more than a couple of hoses. Need to do a pressure test to determine where it is leaking from.

^^I wasnt even going to go there.

Will our blower motor, at low speed, be enough to keep that cool? I am just not used to seeing it in this application.

Whoa! How much noise did that make?

The worst is where the paint is discolored and bubbling above the driver side rear wheel. If it is that visible, then it is usually really bad on the underside.

I would not have bought a body in that bad of shape. Looks like the left rear wheel well and an area on the right door under the moulding. Maybe it isnt as bad as it looks. My expirience tells me it is bad however. The ticking could be valve adjustment.

See if the cig lighter is even plugged in behind the radio bezel.

Subbed. I need to do the same on my car. I didnt want to go with standard wires loom this time. Will read the links after I get home from work.

Yes it is true. I have seen it done before. Messy as hell but will get you out of the woods so to speak. Will only work on older (pre 75) radiators though. I think the smaller row, like in the Supra, would stop the egg in the tanks.

Sure, you can try anything you like. I have never seen any of the epoxies/JB Weld hold for more than warm up time on radiators. 300 miles is a long drive on a damaged and failing coolant system.

Once air starts the chemical reaction there is no ending it. I dont think there is any amount of flushing that will remove this stuff. My advice is not to drive the car until radiator is replaced.

Search for pics of Randy's car, screen name becauseican.

jdub, the pushrods and lifters I saw after this product was used were not reusable after a real repair. GM 3.1 intake manifold leak. The guy run the BD for 6 months with no leak but was getting a terrible tap/knock.