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I was thinking of a metal flake red myself. I havent decided on mine yet so will be keeping an eye on this thread for suggestions.

You seem to be missing the upper PS braket and support. You can find them in the salvage yards on Cressidas as well as Supras. Shouldnt be too difficult to find.

From the dealership there was one. There wasnt one with mine when I got it. Been fabbing up an aftermarket to fit proper like around my group 24F battery for a while but havent gotten around to finishing it. If I were to came across a good condition factory one however....

Is that a Supra factory hold-down? Doesnt look like the one I saw. And stop showing those nasty Durablast pics!

Actually that dry heat thing is quite true. 100° here in Memphis and surronding areas will zap your energy in no time. 100° in AZ is tolerable in the breeze for a few minutes longer. Who am I foolin though. Heat is heat. The AC is always better.

Hey now! I resemble that remark......wait a minute.

Hope that helps.

You know I agree with you 110%. I should have stated it was a practice I did on newer cars when I worked as a tech. There were 2 switches that were very common for failure. The PW and defrost switches. Sensors were always tested for malfunction.

Looks good so far. Keep up the good work.

The areas I have marked with red. If you look you will see worn/torn gasket. That could very well leak coolant under operating temp/pressure. Fill with coolant, replace cap and rinse radiator off so you will be able to see any new coolant that may be present. If more coolant shows up on radiator...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx All of them are covered in very good detail. I will say I have certain known good items I will swap around for testing purposes, it isnt a practice I condone. There could be problems in the circuit as well that is creating the...

When you get your new just look at them side by side. It will be very clear to you. Too much to desribe at the momnet. (Actually too lazy to type it all out.)

I thought the title was a trick question. The repair manuals are really specific on how to test the sensors.

Try replacing that radiator cap. It doesnt look like much more than a failed/worn seal at the cap.

The suggestions came in handy on the intake. The ginder was a bit big however but still made the work go faster than the Dremel did. On the wheels however, it is the best. If you notice one wheel is still scuffed and the other is taking on a mirror shine. Still have 2 more I havent started on...

The real problem is that Miatas only require about a 400 CCA battery to get started. The Supra needs a 650 CCA rated battery. It will work. You are just going to be going through batteries faster than normal. The spot you have selected isnt exactly easy access.

Actually, learning with an expirienced mentor is an excellent way to gather knowledge. I hope someone in the area steps up to help out. Too much false/bad information on the net to confuse someone that doesnt know a lot about cars in the first place.

I retract previous statement. There is a blend door that closes to cut out air flow across the heater core. I am used to seeing one or the other, not both in the same car. Not sure I understand the why of the redudnat system. Has something to do with the auto setting as far as I can tell.